Deadpoint climbing technique reddit. Being in decent physical shape, i managed to march through the early grades, but after 6 months it felt like i hit a plateau. Anyway, I went to a different gym just to try some I wrote a kind of disorganized post before but realized this was really the question I wanted to ask -- how important to you all think one-arm lockoff strength is for climbing hard? On a personal note I struggle with this (can't do a one arm lockoff to save my life) but there are plenty of other things I find way more interesting to train (campus board / hangboard / core / limit boulder etc So my climbing buddies and I are having a debate on the definition of a dyno. 128 votes, 41 comments. Ultimately, beyond the frill of toe hook techniques and how to move laterally before vertically on rock overs, climbing is largely about conscious and unconscious learning of balance in risky situations and that simply can only come from within, though you can learn it efficiently or slowly. Love the grit and send joy. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. If a boulder is hard for you, it's almost certainly going to have some moves that feel deadpointy. Check out our list of the best climbing gear on Former climbing coach here. It involves extending one leg out to the side to maintain balance and control while climbing. We are finding information that matches each of our own understanding. Technique, strength, and endurance, not max recruitment, will get you through those difficult moves. If you get those right, lockoffs either should be a deadpoint anyway, or you should basically just be standing and reaching. Jan 20, 2023 · Climbing Techniques for Short Climbers While short climbers are disadvantaged in reach, they can make up for that by employing climbing techniques to extend said reach. not contracting the unused fingers). You have to load your legs properly and then time your legs pushing up with pulling into the wall with your arms in order to get your hips back into the wall and maximize your reach. You see many people climb for many years and never crack the harder grades. We have diverging opinions and tried asking Google but it hasn’t been helpful. How to tell the difference between failing due to bad technique vs lack of strength vs bad beta? 5'3" climber here The way I've always trained big moves is by projecting routes with big moves, or playing take away. Dedicated to increasing all our… The biomechanics of the deadpoint technique - an extremely valuable dynamic technique that all climbers should understand youtu. , basically every other muscle in your body other than fingers and lats. Orrin Coley demonstrating a Deadpoint Jul 16, 2025 · A deadpoint is a climbing technique where the climber dynamically stands up on their feet to a reach a hold, and at the brief moment before they fall back to the ground, they grab the hold with one hand and regain control. 10c). Reaching up for holds around corners is also a struggle. But if your gym is like mine, you are at a very common wall that begins to require intention to overcome. You get that stability both from technique AND overall body strength in your core, posterior chain, shoulders, etc. Getting a strong core is one of the easiest ways to dramatically improve your climbing. Feb 22, 2023 · This article is part of two wider guides: Climbing Technique 101 & The Basics of Indoor Bouldering Why do climbers use technical drills? Climbers use technical drills to improve their climbing skills and technique. Ultimately, it looks like I’m both bad at generating enough momentum for my deadpoint, and I’m also not great at gauging how much momentum I need to make deadpoints (especially for the medium distance ones from 0. 5 Biomechanical Tips to Improve Your Climbing Technique by u/stoneyviolist - A sports medicine take on climbing form. My goal is to lead climb and hopefully Trad climb at some point, but that's a little further down the road. You can put your hands down if needed during this process, but don't whipsaw your back into the ground-- the core needs to stabilize your back. : r/ClimbingCircleJerk TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Go to ClimbingCircleJerk r/ClimbingCircleJerk Deadpointing is a fascinating dynamic technique used by climbers to reach difficult holds. Especially reachy dynos where you to end up in a very extended position. An onsight attempt, you're much more likely to see shaky, intense thrutching. A static style has its place on easy terrain, or even difficult sections if the protection is marginal. A lot of people plateau because they just keep climbing and working on technique but never gain the required strength. There are many different types of people that have started using this as their main training tool. Jan 12, 2025 · In this video, I use an analogy that I often give for people newer to climbing who want to understand the deadpoint (my favorite technique in climbing). We all know the videos/articles with titles like "Best 5 beginner tips" and the like. However, you will be pouring away energy if you lock off and slow-mo to every hold on cruxes and The best way to do that is to do deadpoint snatches to small holds very nearly every session. Mar 9, 2023 · Deadpoints are the foundation of dynamic climbing, a movement pattern that aims to use momentum, rather than pure strength. I sended my first V7 at a Hangar 18 after 11 months and my first 6 sometime during my 4th month. In this video, he gives three tips on how to improve your climbing technique. Setter put up a cool 5 minute block to replicate more outdoorsy deadpoint moves, you don’t get these types of climbs indoors very often! Jan 13, 2025 · In recent years, Will Bosi has catapulted himself from a little-known climber to the climbing elite - in sport climbing and bouldering. Make as big of moves as you feel comfortable on a vertical wall to start. It's a fairly common ice climbing technique, but almost entirely useless in rock climbing. You're asking about applying recreational rock climbing techniques (that you don't know) outside the realm of recreational rock climbing. However, practice makes one pro. Related : Complete Guide to Climbing Technique Use your feet Aug 29, 2023 · This week, for our Move of the Moment, we'll be looking at the ubiquitous Deadpoint. Lastly, like u/uhkhu said, gain power initially by bouldering. A setter once gave me some great sage advice -- "always look for the hidden heel hook". And yes, you should do drills or exercises focused on specific movement or technique you want to work on. Insane final men's problem from Deadpoint 2023 (Beta Bloc's Dyno Comp)! 4 comments Best Add a Comment KrapXela • 6 hr. A redpoint is when a climber successfully completes a route “lead climbing” without falling, while a deadpoint is a climbing technique where a climber launches themselve upward and grabs a hold at the moment of weightlessness at the top of the “jump”. You need precision, because you pretty much have to deadpoint—too much swing and your feet will pop. Watch videos of other short climbers and look at their technique. Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Add a Comment TheFapperInTheRye • Reddit's rock climbing training community. I remember, when i started climbing, i had the approach of either (near) flashing a route, or deciding that it's too hard and i'll skip it for now. I want to become a consistent V6-V7 climber but I'm not sure how to structure my climbing sessions or what type of sessions to include. Another exercise would be to maintain your feet through large, legitimately dynamic moves. She can do every single move on this 14b, except this one deadpoint. 2m), and I often lose tension in the feet when making them (though this may be an issue of momentum Reddit's rock climbing training community. The move is most easily described as creating a moment of "zero gravity", a point between moving up and moving down in space. As a new climber, I hope someday I'll be able to spend enough time on a V13 to get to the "Deadpoint high foot, double mono crimp backstep pumpy sasha digiulan boulder crux dyno" 153 votes, 14 comments. She's considering dropping the project because it isn't a skill or strength thing, its 100% a height thing. There is not shortage of crushers under 5'3 to watch Climbing lingo is frustratingly imprecise. ). I even tried shirt off but couldn't stick the last move to the top, any advice on technique? By technique I obviously mean how many pull ups should I do before trying again. "Black Adam" ’s Quintessa Swindell Anchors Lead In Spyglass’ Rock Climbing Thriller "Deadpoint" 360 votes, 76 comments. So, yes, you will likely improve if you add bouldering to your session. If you pull a tendon, you're looking at months of recovery If you even fully recover. I agree about the control. Build your strength and techniques before focusing 55 votes, 34 comments. This week, we’re diving into the deadpoint — a game-changing 110 votes, 58 comments. The biomechanics of the deadpoint technique - an extremely valuable dynamic technique that all climbers should understand Static climbing forces you to have more technique and body awareness. Aug 9, 2020 · Improving your climbing and taking on harder routes does not only depend on increasing strength and nailing dynos. Deadpoint: A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. I’m thinking I need to flag harder and work on my pocket technique more in general (i. This guide walks you though the types of holds, body position, and footwork. I still work on my technique every single time i go out climbing, during my warmups I choose a different drill most days, but when i was beginning i would focus on 1 or 2 drills for 2-4 weeks at a time until i felt like i really understood it. And yes we are scared of falling. Now that I climb less but actually do structured hang protocols my progress is skyrocketing. A video about the biomechanics of the deadpoint technique - a valuable dynamic technique that all climbers should understand [3:41] In regards to static vs deadpoint, simply doing moves statically is not inherently a demonstration of superior technique (Though keeping your feet on instead of cutting almost always is). My friend is currently having this issue on an outdoor sport project. ” Exploit that deadpoint to readjust and optimize your grip on the target hold. The technique for deadpoint/campus is best gained on the wall, and by doing strict pull-ups, your "static" movement strength will progress better (again, probably best gained on the wall). Or it might be a technique gap, in which case climb with people slightly above your grade. The technique you are looking to improve is called a deadpoint. I couldn't do it, what muscles do I need to work out? I'm 99% sure it wasn't a technique issue, someone else did it and used same body position and stayed on. The popularity of board climbing has increased dramatically in the past year. Dab: When on a problem, a climber brushes the ground, spotter, another hold, tree, or anything else not associated with the route. Aug 2, 2023 · Lead climbing and belaying effectively involve many nuances. And of course you need body tension. 9-5. Mar 16, 2020 · The climbing community is an open and gracious one, but there are some bouldering terms that you don’t want to be associated with. Technique drills are used to isolate specific aspects of climbing and focus on improving them through repetitive practice. Any other advice about muscles is really helpful too. I started Moonboarding on the 2016 set in December 2017, and started Moonboard That said though, generally most people failing a deadpoint or dyno is still due to being short the amount of power required for it, rather than at risk of over-launching off into the moon. As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). What is Deadpoint Climbing? Metaphorically, deadpointing is an advanced rock climbing technique performed at the edge of the world where one wrong shift could make everything come crashing down. Feb 8, 2023 · The Deadpoint is an advanced climbing technique that enables climbers to reach holds they wouldn’t be able to reach otherwise, through a combination of speed, coordination, and precision. I realize a contributing factor may be my lack of experience or my lack of totally proper technique. Yes, you should do a LOT of actual climbing. e. 11b's and c's on top rope. Imagine throwing a tennis ball up, at the peak of its ascent there Feb 15, 2023 · The Flag is a crucial technique in climbing that can greatly improve a climber’s balance, efficiency, and overall performance. The high hold on a deadpoint will almost always be good at that grade, so I can be confident of latching onto it. Do you have any tips, ideas or videos which focus on efficient and fast clipping? Any tips on this move and how to stop my hips from dropping? (My attempts versus friends successful attempts) 690 votes, 61 comments. Dedicated to increasing all our… Notice in the vid how they pull their hips away before starting the deadpoint, and thrust it in in coordination with the leg push and arm pull. 13c, most big moves can almost always be skipped by good technique and flexibility (that and a lot of core strength). The dead point is a “point in time” when your body stops moving. Fully agree as well. I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, there are always new techniques to learn and ways to improve your performance. My background: I sent my first V8 3 years into climbing in April 2017. But once you learn how to use it effectively, you will learn to appreciate how it becomes essential to pushing your limits, reaching new heights (literally and figuratively), and improving as a climber. If you assume climbing time is a good proxy of technique then this is clearly the case. Learning technique to extend my reach has been a great help though, as well as using techniques that tend to be harder for taller climbers (i. If anyone could give me tips to complete this route or to even just get better that would be greatly appreciated! : r/bouldering TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Go to bouldering r/bouldering r/bouldering Reddit's rock climbing training community. 168K subscribers in the climbharder community. Reddit's rock climbing training community. 7-1. However, they play a number of critical roles in the physicality and technique of climbing. I did the whole D1 wrestling thing where technique is taught on a near-daily basis throughout one's grappling "career", whereas that doesn't seem to exist in a formalized way in climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. Unless it's completely necessary, I avoid lock-offs to reach high holds and instead just quickly pull hard and latch the hold like a deadpoint. You need to be careful about this though, because those kinds of moves shock load the fingers. . Feb 2, 2024 · What’s the secret to progressing from beginner to local superstar? The answer is simple: bouldering technique for beginners! Ideally hitting the deadpoint (like the reverse of an upward deadpoint) before your butt hits the ground. I agree that climbing language is often muddy and imprecise at times especially on reddit but being pedantic and gate keeping someone’s success that they’re trying to share isn’t helping anyone. Self-coached Climber was the most useful for me, by a Tips, tricks, drills and skills for sticking dynamic moves As a 5'3" climber, I've been struggling on some gym routes recently to stick moves on overhangs that are out of my reach when I move statically. For me, that time also meant to tackle my frustration tolerance. I think the evidence points towards strength being important from lower grades than people think. It's just short of a dyno in that it's fairly dynamic but you keep your feet on the wall. Tips for keeping tension/ not losing feet on hard deadpoints? Everytime I get a good contact on the hold my foot automatically flies off. When her mother passes away from a tragic accident, Hoji begins to see a literal Deadpoints are the foundation of dynamic climbing, a movement pattern that aims to use momentum, rather than pure strength. Reply reply One leg warmup - use only one leg (combine with single leg techniques) Hovers (before and after) and false start/discus throw technique - hover hand over holds Deadpoint practice - Expand the box you climb in big turning big moves into harder moves with smaller holds and longer distances - stop and hold tension at the deadpoint Reddit's rock climbing training community. If someone were watching you climb in your element, how would they describe you from a visual perspective? How do you want to look like when climbing? Ok, what does style have to do with climbing harder? If you assess your favorite crushers, what are their styles like? What are some commonalities? What are they generally not Jul 19, 2023 · Now drive down through your big toes to create a “bouncing” motion that kips your hips into the wall; as you do so, at the top of each bounce you’ll experience a momentary “weightless” moment—the “deadpoint. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, mastering the Flag can help you tackle more challenging routes and reach new heights. That means discovering how to increase your reach by putting one hip into the wall or by finding out that maybe you need to be doing more flexibility exercises/yoga. Hey guys so Im new to bouldering/ climbing in general. I think as you develop as a climber, you develop a certain style. The climber will maintain one or both of their feet on the wall and usually will be at full extension when making the move. Somewhat new to climbing but when I watch videos demonstrating good technique, the climber smoothly moves like water between… Reddit's rock climbing training community. Dedicated to increasing all our… Aug 11, 2025 · Read Deadpoint Now! Digital comics on WEBTOON, EVERY TUESDAY. When people come to this thread and ask about rope access/IRATA or arborist techniques, the most common piece of advice is "talk to someone in that field. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Sure, yeah, then maybe you forgo the S&C exercises and even the movement/technique drills, and just focus your time on scrimmaging. Aug 8, 2021 · A redpoint and deadpoint in climbing are terminologies used in rock climbing. Reply Gin-ginna • May 21, 2020 · There are many climbing techniques that can be learned and leverage to improve your climbing performance. These are my thoughts and experiences regarding board climbing. Climbing is interesting in that you can not be strong enough yet still send due to great technique or problem solving, but strength will then become a limiting factor, then visa versa. Climbing Principles for Ambitious New Climbers Climbing Principles: Disclaimer: I wrote this about 8 months after I started climbing, so I am by no means a veteran, but I have worked very hard to learn technique and progress quickly. I imagine having a good amount of core strength coming into play, as well as strong grip to secure you while you adjust your lower body. A deadpoint is a move in rock climbing in which the climbers use momentum to propel themselves upward to reach a hold that they could not otherwise reach by simply using their muscles. But now, we want to know what would have made it a dyno? Is a deadpoint a dyno? What the h is a I have been climbing for roughly 8/9 months and by this point I am projecting v8's and v9's (outdoors and indoors) and flashing v6/7 most of the time. Although indoor climbing tends to be more of a challenge for shorter climbers than outdoor climbing, even indoor climbs are possible for shorter climbers with the right technique and training. Currently I have been experiencing issues in regards to deadpoint moves and more isolation moves. Here are 22 techniques with a brief explanation of what it is, when to do it and how to do it. This may come off as an obvious or nooby question, but it's been bothering me recently. I've noticed through videos of me climbing that, whenever possible, I will use dynamic movement instead of static. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. I know there's an abundance of people who blame strength over technique, but the reality is I can't do a single pull-up. The deadpoint does minimize required grip force, but its still higher than static grips which use other muscles to counteract the downward gravitational force, trading off grip strength for other muscles like core and bicep/tricep etc. The foundation of moving efficiently through a climb, the deadpoint is also a great entry into the world of all-points-off dynos (huge jumps!) You'll likely find you've been integrating I’m not great at tips unfortunately. Here’s one of my favorite climbing posts about hip technique: the hump Biggest bit of advice that seems stupidly obvious is to relax before starting the movement. Moving fast through a route allows you to spend less time on poor holds and cuts the energy wasted by performing endless pumpy lockoffs. I'd also say learning how to time movement is huge. 10b's and c's. Dedicated to increasing all our… A deadpoint is where you throw as far as you can to reach a hold; the "dead point" is the point where your momentum dies. Some 1. Mar 17, 2023 · How much focus you place on technique – some boulderers are more serious than others. I went to another gym and tried the pink one in the corner, V1 (-V10 in my gym). Seven tips—to work on now and, as climber and belayer, continually. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Jun 24, 2025 · Welcome to Technique Tuesday, where we break down essential climbing techniques to help you level up your indoor bouldering game. 🫠 However, we did found consensus that the above is a deadpoint. Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. 4K votes, 38 comments. Gets harder with bad/sloppy footholds, and with more extension. Calisthenics is your friend. 1 - a toe drag is a legitimate technique on higher grades, but almost never necessary at the difficulty level I'm describing (5. Sort of like a campus board, but with juggy feet, and just move from the first pair of holds to the highest you feel Mar 7, 2025 · Do you know what a dead point is ☠️ 👈? It’s a vital technique/skill to understand when climbing. ive been struggling with this one route over the past few times ive gone. You can tell OP is really pushing leading to a solid commit at the top. Edit : Just watch the video and if you look at nikken vs Mickey climbing on the last boulder , you can see the lack of dynamic climbing and deadpoint and more static climbing in the way that mickey move. After reviewing my climbing videos, I noticed I'm failing deadpoints a lot. Climbing is all about finding your current weakest aspect, and honing it until you have a new weakness. This route has been my project route for several months, and every time I reach for the finishing move I fall. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms. All of this put another way: you've only been climbing two years and probably haven't developed the range of experience and technique to translate to elegant climbing just yet. Hey Guys Next week I'll be going to my first just for fun rock climbing lead competition. As the other comment described, it really is all in the hips. I have watched many of my guy friends with more natural upper body strength who have been climbing less time than me overtake me grade-wise pretty quickly. 1. Feb 14, 2022 · Learn to climb by starting with the fundamentals. Well, for most people its a deadpoint, for her it has become and all points off dyno with no good feet. Oct 4, 2021 · The hover, like all climbing wall training, is an integral exercise that acknowledges the complexity of climbing movement. Honestly though, after climbing both v10 and 5. I don't think climbing training is significantly different. Tips/suggestions for these kind of deadpoint-y pocket moves? I feel like I don’t have enough “hang time” at the top of my swing/movement to accurately catch the pocket. Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! “Deadpointing” is a term used to describe an advanced, climbing movement technique. 10 pushups is difficult for me. I've climbed maybe a hundred thousand boulder problems and have never encountered a forced figure 4. Also good is to have a set of holds set up as rungs that you can do snatches on. That stated it is a Totally agree, with coming from a wrestling background climbing technique is somewhat trivial and while I always have a Surplus in raw pulling strength finger strength always has been my biggest weakness. Which given my preferences, is a very attractive option. high feet, etc. It took me quite a while until i Jan 23, 2025 · We often underestimate the importance of the hips. Focus specifically on 1. be upvotes r/climbing r/climbing I am looking for technique advice/cues/drills to keep tension on long deadpoints with the following features: Starting position involves an OK sidepull or undercling, a good opposing foot, and the same-side foot flagging hard against the wall The sidepull is not incut - you can't wrap your fingers behind it to pull directly into the wall The move is almost full-extension and to a hold which is Reddit's rock climbing training community. The best training you can do is more climbing, and more watching. “Climbing statically” should be more about body position and foot work/engagement than pure lock off strength. If you can do a move statically, you always should, and practicing static movement is enormously beneficial to your climbing. It takes patience, time, and determination to acquire proficiency in a skilled climbing technique. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. TL;DR: How do I learn good technique, short of paying to take classes? So I started climbing in a local climbing gym around December and after the first month have been going about 3 times a week and I do both top roping and bouldering. Also…climb slabs and technical stuff to improve technique! Also watch World Cup climbers do their thing, study what they’re doing different than you. ago In my experience, good technique comes from stability in a variety of positions and being able to stay stable through a movement. However, what are some advanced climbing tips for someone who has climbed a few years? I came across this video, and thats my inspiration for the question. Think of power as the hardest move you are capable of. Today on a climb I had to pull in one handed on a slopey 3 finger pocket on an incline (pocket was originally perpendicular to floor but incline made it slope). Being able to campus sure looks cool, but is rarely useful in more moderate climbing. Maybe it's just not right for me and I should stick to going outside on the weekends :P TLDR: Non-workout tips for getting better at the moonboard, for an outdoorsy climber who doesn't usually like indoor climbing or gym-sessions. Sep 28, 2021 · How to Deadpoint? Deadpointing is a crucial, yet hard-to-master technique, even for people that have been climbing for years. When leading, I can usually do 5. Watch videos of pros, watch other climbers, climb boulders with a group. I understand that consistent climbing will most likely be the best way to improve, but are there any resources that y'all might recommend to fast track progress? Bouldering focuses on power and technique, and allows you to repeat the same movements easily (from the ground, rather than climbing to a crux half way up a route). As a shorter climber I'd recommend board climbs, obviously can't tell the height of who Looks pretty good to me man I think just keep climbing and getting stronger and technique will improve along with experience and getting stronger. Lock-off strength is not just about having pistons for arms, after all, but about being able to press through your feet and hold tension in a range of contorted positions. Climbing static is good for precision, but a dynamic style can be much more efficient. To execute a deadpoint, the climber must first approach the hold with enough speed and momentum to allow them to “snap” to the hold when they reach it. See: Debate about dyno vs deadpoint People describing having the rope behind your leg as a back step People describing rope damage where you can’t actually see the core through the sheath as a ‘coreshot’ Reddit's rock climbing training community. Sep 16, 2022 · Five tips to help you to gain every key last millimeter for those reachy moves. At the same Reddit's rock climbing training community. The Flag is by far my favorite May 6, 2024 · The ability to climb dynamically is a critical skill for hard bouldering and sport climbing, yet many climbers struggle to “bounce and slap,” even when that is what the move demands. Use your toes Using your toes is probably the most basic climbing technique and should be one Advice on climbing efficiency (video included) I've been climbing for about a year and a half, and am comfortable climbing 5. The absolute best exercise for learning how to move with momentum / deadpoint is to climb easy routes one handed. Rushing into finger strength is the fastest way to get hurt. Those who tend to research climbing techniques and pay attention to others tend to progress much faster than those who don’t. People here are always asking about climbing pants so I thought I’d do a review of all my favorites! Oct 12, 2020 · Climbing can seem almost impossible if you can’t reach the holds, but there are some ways to make climbing more accessible to those a little shorter. When the going gets tough, the tough get going. There is one climbing technique that combines dynamic movement and static control to help you tackle some challenging climbing moves—the deadpoint. But what if sooner or later, we hit a ceiling and can’t soar any higher? For Hoji Park, a young sports climber with grand ambitions, it’s difficult to accept that our limitations are set in stone. Complete Guide to Climbing & Bouldering Technique Climbing is an exhilarating and physically demanding sport that requires strength, flexibility, and technique. 54 votes, 28 comments. Frequency – how often you attend a bouldering gym, has a major impact on how quickly you will progress. Another guy below wrote some great core workout tips.
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