Tension board reddit. 5' x 8' without kickboard (I'd need to shift the bottom row of LEDs to make this fit in 11' 6", but I believe I can Yeah, it’s pretty straightforward, assuming you have the tension board mobile app. Training boards like that can be pretty finger intensive and not develop a broad range of techniques. I don't recommend climbing on the board 2 days in a row. Highly recommend a listen, Ian has such a fascinating life story as well. It’s the most „engaging“ edge and really makes you try hard. As I waited I did more research on Tension and decided I would make the hole patterns to fit them both. Does anyone have any suggestions? One nice thing about the tensionboard is that I can come back in 3 months and try the same climb without my gym having reset it. The #1 Reddit source for news, information, and discussion about modern board games and board game culture. AITA for telling a creepy guy to get off the tension board? I (28F) was using the tension board at my gym yesterday, I had it all to myself so I was taking advantage of it because it's usually crowded. Weighing in at just over a single pound the Flash Board is a hyper-portable (2"x18") tube-style hanging apparatus. A balanced relation between strongly opposing elements: "the continuing, and essential, tension between two of the three branches of government, judicial and legislative" (Haynes Johnson). I think the deciding factor between the two is whether you'd use the 7mm or monos (the 20mm can substitute for the 2-finger pockets). And yes we are scared of falling. Always start with both hands on the start holds, blue holds are on, pink holds are for feet only. Tension board 2. Kilter Board: Softer overall but denser in the V0–V6 range, which might be ideal for newer climbers. Does anyone’s gym post specific etiquette rules? Jun 9, 2025 · In terms of grading: Tension Board: More consistent, smoother difficulty curve. Lots of thin pinching too. Just do pull-ups on a pull up bar - trying to incorporate fingers is a mistake because finger weakness will become a limiting factor in doing pull-ups, and therefore will prevent you from getting better at pull ups. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… May 14, 2021 · What Are Tension Boards? The founders of Tension Climbing — Will Anglin, Ben Spannuth, and Gabe Adams — attended college together and enjoyed coming up with creative ways to train. TENSION BOARD I have a home tension board that is 40 degrees steep 8x10 all sets with a kick board. The sorting interface sucks- I can use the same parameters and have a different list returned. Its a superb training tool to work on max strength. I recently started climbing on the Tension Board more and have to say that I'm not really a fan of the feet. Decent amount of sloping non positive hold profiles. :) I have replicated a lot of the holds, and plan on using the actual Tension layout next time I reset my wall. Mar 26, 2024 · Longtime board fanatic Matt Samet tested the Tension Board 2, the MoonBoard 2024, and the Woods Board. TENSION definition: 1. a feeling of fear or anger…. Yes the old anacdote of "if you board climb then you get better at board climbing" is true, it kind of misses out a lot of nuance. Which climbing board is best for you? Enter the Tension Flash board. LED lights and community set problems are a must have. I've been working through some harder problems for me, v6s and 7s, really enjoying not having to share the board with anyone for a change. Waiting on my holds to finish my home tension board! I opted for the 8’x10’ cause of my ceilings, and am painting the board with chalkboard paint instead of installing LEDs for now. Hello all, I’ll try to make this as brief as possible! I have some specific questions about Amitriptyline, and I’m hoping some of you wonderful folks can share your experiences. A great training tool as a standalone or to enhance your sessions, and progress your strength and power! The individual blocks of the tension simple board, combine with a French clete on each on that make them adjustable is by far the most comfortable board I’ve used. I didn’t expect that from such a small device. a feeling of nervousness before an important or difficult event: 2. The Tension Board is the culmination of a decade of successful and failed mirror-board layouts and the input and criticism of more strong and thoughtful coaches and climbers than I can name at the moment. Board climbing on the tensionboard Tension board - open source app In discussions about what to do about the awful new tension app, several people have brought up the possibility of an open source app for the tension board. Is anyone else really frustrated with the new tension board app? I own a board and use it several times a week. middle edges are roughly 18mm and 6mm with the latter E. I just started this week on doing a gradual warm up and then adjusting the kilter board to 40 degrees and attempting problems on there. Hi there Benzgeg. The moonboard app doesn’t differentiate between hand holds and footholds, which makes sense given that most of the V5 outdoors, V5 indoors, V3 Tension board (don’t have access to Kilter and I don’t really climb on system boards much). I am curious if I can fully supplement hangboard and campus board cycles with only tension board and still maintain progression over an extended period (Effectively not ever cycling hanging or campus). Worth it? Now that all the dust has settled, how is the Tension Board as a training tool for a home wall? I haven't seen much hype about it lately, but thinking about buying holds to swap out with my current Moonboard setup for the summer season. If you’re climbing V10+ or aiming for elite outdoor performance, the Tension Board may help you get there. So far I just have a bunch of tension-like holds & others sprayed over my wall. I use the tension board quite a lot! Two things- What's the cause of your plateau? How long has it been, what grade are you stuck at, and is it a strength, power, or power endurance issue? How you use the tension board can vary greatly depending on the thing to be addressed. Does anyone have a list of what they consider the benchmark problems for the tension board at 30 or 40 degrees in v4-v9 range? I doubt anyone could just pull one out of memory but who knows! I was originally going to try out the tension board but the holds look like they’re on another level compared to the kilterboard. Tension board in 2020. Our flagship Tension Board is the ultimate confluence of training, practice, and performance. The woodie is a necessity, but I'd support a Moon Board or Tension Board. I mainly board climb, mostly tension and moonboard as well as a spray wall. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Personal Anecdotes on Board Training- Typically I like doing training blocks dedicated to either strength or power We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It sports a clever cordelette suspension and features everything one could want out of a travel/recruitment board: two-handed edges are approximately 18mm/10mm/6mm with a slight incut on each to account for mild rotation. They don't even really need to be exact copies. I'm planning to build an adjustable-angle wall at home, and based on the space I can build either of the following: 10' x 8' with 1' kickboard (adding the kickboard makes this a non-traditional size for Tension) 11. We have a tension board at my gym, I’ve been able to climb a good amount of v6s on the board which I’m pretty happy with! I’ve been told that tension board is very sandbagged compared to the other boards. That said, to answer the question, I've faced a similar problem, and my solution was and is to use a Tension Flash Board, hanging it from a doorway pull up bar (which I salvaged from a dumpster). I don’t climb super hard (5. And generally “feet follow hands” applies here, except when specific foot holds are given. Lateral tension ties I framed this deck with 4 beams perpendicular to the house using LGUM28-3 brackets bolted into the foundation wall so that I could run my decking perpendicular to the house. This issue seems to be better addressed with the Tension Board 2, as the additional holds are added to the top of the larger boards rather than the bottom like on the Kilterboard Homewall. I'm potentially considering getting the LED package as well. Tension definition: the act of stretching or straining. TENSION meaning: 1 : a feeling of nervousness that makes you unable to relax; 2 : a feeling of nervousness, excitement, or fear that is created in a movie, book, etc. I have two main questions: My garage has 9ft ceilings, here are my options for actual size of the board: 45 degrees with a 6 inch kick board 50 degree board with a full kickboard Somewhere in between the above Given the above options, what would be the best route to go for moonboard vs tensionboard and if moonboard, what hold sets? For reference I climb v7 on the tension board but still drop v6's here and there. Any advice and tips to get started? I climb around 6b-6c+ on lead and bouldering perhaps V4/5? I live in a small town without access to a big full-equipment/routes climbing gym. Tension is a feeling of fear or nervousness produced before a difficult, dangerous, or important event. Sep 13, 2020 · The Moon Board has the largest database of problems, but I don't think there's any shortage of great problems on the Tension Board. If you just want to get boulders without setting them yourself, checkout the Boulder Bot app (Android only ATM). Used to be shit outdoors and now, after putting in the time, I feel just as strong out as in. I was wondering if anyone has compiled a pdf of screenshots from the iOS app before I go ahead and do it. The official reddit and message board for Steven Low's site and books: Overcoming Gravity 2nd Edition, Overcoming Poor Posture, and Overcoming Tendonitis. As a new climber you should be focused on learning techniques, getting lots of millage and avoiding stressing your fingers too much until you'r a year or two in. If the average climber spent a full session focused on, say, spray wall climbing just once every few weeks I predict the sandbag claims would mostly go away—I believe it's a comfort issue. I’m already working with my GP, but I’d like to hear from you guys as well! I started taking Ami around a month ago, and after two weeks I was getting some relief so the dose was upped (from 10mg to 20mg). So finally my question. So i was watching a lot of videos and also searching this sub but would like to get some inputs from you guys since i didnt get a clear answer, yet :) In alot of gyms with spraywalls, stepping on wooden holds is a no go - not so on the moon and tension board (is that just marketing to sell more holds?) im about to put up the wall next week (all the hardwoodholds have already arrived) 2. How to use tension in a sentence. Discuss any of the books, training, nutrition, and lifestyle. All of these options are going to provide you with a fantastic option to improve and have fun but the Home Wall Full Ride does so much right packed into a 10x10 foot square. Designed and tested by coaches, trainers, professional athletes, and lifelong climbers. Reply reply Paarebrus • Board/circuit climbing on 25-35 degrees on smaller holds If it's contact strength you're looking for, and have access to a board, I'd suggest to try board climbing. I didn't use the Kilter Board enough to know if their database size is a problem. The problem is that they don't actually ask members what they want and it seems like they're going with Kilter because someone knows someone. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You can apparently set up the new 2. I recently purchased a tension flash board due to the convenience of not needing to go to the gym to use a hangboard. 1/4 pad, 1/3 pad, 1/2 pad, full-pad everything I need. If you want to raise your sport grade I would suspect that sport climbing more would work better - projecting tension board V4 is wayyyyyy physically harder than 10a onsight/11b redpoint (when I was redpointing steep 12- and onsighting 11- tension board V4s were multi-session projects). Even the climbs I can do are so physically uncomfortable that they aren't enjoyable. It’s really awesome that Tension made it possible to just transfer between sets like that. Plus there is virtually no tipping - the way that the cord is hitched onto the board makes for a surprisingly stable hang, and I feel like I can do legitimately hard hangs with confidence. Unbeknownst to me this was making her very upset because apparently the tension board only belongs to her. 3 days ago · tension (countable and uncountable, plural tensions) The condition of being held in a state between two or more forces, which are acting in opposition to each other. Much more body strength and active grip needed so that you can’t just “hang your skin” throwing to holds. Learn more. 0 set on the same layout as the original tension board, with some slight adjustment to lighting. . First impressions: the edge depths spot-on and super comfortable. Easily my favorite board. The All-in-one Climbing Training Solution. However, I don't think I am best utilizing the tool beyond working symmetry/ body tension and trying harder and harder problems. I hate the greasy feeling that every other salve has, ClimbSkin rubs into your skin really fast and is the best skin recovery product I've ever used (And I've tried every hand salve imaginable). Reply reply dubdubby • I recently purchased a home tension board 10 x 8 without LEDs Wondering if anyone has used tension board without LEDs and if it is hard to spot the correct holds while climbing. Not considering the Moon board. What is Tension? Tension is a physical, emotional, or mental strain that arises when we face stress or pressure. Is it basically just limit boulder sessions? Should I treat it differently from limit bouldering in the gym because even simple moves feel much harder? I've been climbing on my gyms tension board recently but as I dont have iOS I can't access the app with problems (the android version is in limbo). Shed holds the pads. Does anyone here has a private tension wall or access to any small tension holds (large crimp shallow / medium / Deep / finger bucket small 7 straight pinch)? Im interested in the depth of the holds. They’re fairly close to outdoor grades imo, at least the moonboard is anyway. I would argue that using a board is probably the one climbing related "exercise" that will help you become stronger climber. Additionally, I find the mirror option on the Tension Board 2 very interesting. So, gym bouldering grades tend to be super soft, Moonboard ratings are notoriously sandbagged but what's the consensus on Tension Board problems… Both Tension boards have jugs, 35mm, 20mm, 15mm, and 10mm holds, which provide a nice progression from pull-ups to pulses. Just had a baby and my time is limited, so I have built a full tension board in my garage at 40 degrees. g you can sent a roof / steep climb with good handholds but you have to use toehooks to make progess. I bought my simple board with the intention of progressing on smaller edges. I tried to be open minded and patient about the new app, but that is getting exceedingly difficult. The meaning of TENSION is inner striving, unrest, or imbalance often with physiological indication of emotion. I climb v7 outdoors and I can struggle sending many T board v5’s. My gym has an adjustable kilter board, an adjustable tension board and a campus board. Best of both worlds between the explosive contact strength of the Moonboard and the body tension awareness of the TB1. As time went on it became Hey All - looking for advice on the various Tension Board sizes. I love the really advanced and beautifully clean tension board with lights and then the dirty mattress pad! Goodluck sending man! If you didn't have access to gym or rock, which system board would you prefer to have at home (not interested in spray wall): 8x12 Moonboard (2016, 2017, 2019, whichever) 7x10 Kilter Full ride home wall 8x10 Tension board 2 I absolutely love the moonboard, but the hold density is lacking compared to the kilter full ride and TB2. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post: List of European Climbing Gym that have a Tension Board 2 ? List of European Climbing Gym that have a Tension Board 2 ? I've become pretty obsessed with TB2 recently, unfortunately, I live in Paris and in my country, there is currently no commercial Gym that offer a Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. It goes like this for a decent amount of time, maybe 20 minutes or so? Seems like the new generation of boards are trying to take the best features of each of the last generation. It goes like this for a decent amount of time, maybe 20 minutes or so? Jan 31, 2025 · Thoughts on the Tension Board 1. What are the benchmark problems on the Tension Board? Particularly on the lower levels, since I'm weak. I originally ordered the moon board holds but since they were backed up on orders it was almost a 2-month delay. Certainly gets the job done, and on days when I can't get to the gym, it's nice to mix hangs with core/general bodyweight exercises utilizing the bar. Many of my friends have had similar experiences. MoonBoard Pros: • Kicker panel with downsloping footholds is a great way to work body tension • Holds have individual personality, with the various colors and materials (plastic and wood), and you come to The new Tension Board 2 at Ascent in Fort Collins, Colorado - The black holds are plastic I've climbed on Tension, Moon, and original Kilter boards before and I daresay, the 10x10 Full Ride from Kilter smashes them all. Strained relations between countries can cause political tensions to rise. Most are easy to replicate: flat edges are, well, flat, and 30° edges have, as you'd guess, a 30° incut. I’m looking to push myself on V9 although theirs not many options. I then stumbled on the Tension board. A mirrored board is an idea that stood the test of time, but there are significant drawbacks to the tension and kilter boards that they are progressing on. So question: how does the grading compare from tension board to moon board to kilter board? which board is the most sand bagged to least sand bagged? If I’m doing v6s on tension would Most boards are “sandbagged” compared to soft indoor commercial gym setting. The interesting thing is that this is a tension board so really, you should be trying every move by maintaining as much tension from your finger tips through to your feet, instead of cutting them all the time :P. Moonboard and tension have shit holds and are much better at training finger contact strength. Ever board with weird and interesting holds are things you'd be better off just climbing to work with. 0 vs Tension board 1 for training? Does anyone out there have experience TRAINING on both boards? Which is better? Strengths vs weaknesses of each board? What are the climbing style differences you’ve noticed between boards? Does one do better with training technical problems? The original tension board is pretty powerful and has the smallest, most aggresive crimps of any commercial board but plenty of jugs too so lots of potential for big throws on good holds or tensiony moves on truly bad holds. I think that makes it feel a bit more repetitive than the other I've only climbed on moon boards and tension boards (at various angles). If it gets too easy, add weight. My gym has a kilterboard. I think it partly depends on your goals. 450 subscribers in the climbingbuilds community. Building a home wall. Join the community and come discuss games like Codenames, Wingspan, Brass, and all your other favorite games! I'm curious to hear thoughts and discussion on how people use boards as training tools. What I like the most about the tension board as a training tool for improving climbing is the symmetrical aspect combined with a large problem set. Broooo, your fingers are stronger than me and I can flash V8s on Tension board a decent amount of the time now. See examples of TENSION used in a sentence. 10-11 sport, V2-V4 on the Tension Board at 30degrees) and want something fun that I can do volume on, not just a limit training tool. There are a lot of intricacies with the Tension Board (as well as any board) with certain ways to grab certain holds that you will learn over time and make things easier. Open my app and realize I've been attempting 2019 problems on a 2016 setup Now if your goal is to climb an overhanging Boulder at roughly 30-50 degrees then the moonboard or tension board become somewhat short cutting tools. It’s a common part of life but can impact our health if it becomes chronic. After working a few sessions on the Tension and getting better, I figured I would try to Moonboard again. The new set is all screw on so not too much work. Crimping doesn’t. What wall would you get? Tension Board 8x12 fixed at 40, full 12” kicker Tension Board 8x12 fixed at 30, no/reduced We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Thanks. 1K votes, 80 comments. I also have access to other hangboards like the Beastmaker 2000 which allow me to work on other edge depths. Couldn't be happier! Reply reply RayPineocco • 26 votes, 24 comments. Ian Powell goes a bit more in depth about the Kilter Board and the entire design process on the Thundercling podcast. Failing on the Kilter board doesn't feel gratifying either. At the end of the day I’ve realized that your grade in a given area really just reflects the time and effort you put into it. If you like the tension board and want to make one cheap, just make wooden holds yourself. The home of Climbing on reddit. The routes on the kilter board feel more stable and less dynamic than the other routes I have seen in the gym. I cannot help but get angry every time I use it. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. It would be really great to have the meassurements right, especially with those little bastad-holds! Sorry in advance for the rant. I do however have access to a Tension board. What are yall’s thoughts, do you incorporate board climbing into your climbing schedule? Climbing recently has been getting very fun and I’m trying to make it a bigger part of my life to grow stronger. The pinches and large edges are great four building power at steeper angles though. I agree regarding the Tension board, I find it to be a more robust training tool vs the MB. The inspector is asking me how I am going to add tension ties. Entre las opciones disponibles, la Tension Board goza de menos popularidad. Considering maybe swapping out the home wall, or making a rotation. Also I use ClimbSkin for skin repair. In general there are a lot of positives to board climbing such as learning to try hard, training core, pulling and fingerstrength at the same time while the only but IMO hefty downside is that you The tension board has done wonders for my pinch strength and power endurance, and transfers better to outdoor climbing compared to indoor sets. Meaning, pronunciation, picture, example sentences, grammar, usage notes, synonyms and more. It's still under development but it's already pretty good! The moon and tension boards feel more fingery and technical. It requires strong hands and and even stronger core to stay on the wall, since the holds are all very shit. For me it was perfect for training, because open hand comes easy for me. Sin embargo, ofrece unas particularidades que la convierten en una gran opción para un rocódromo o un garage particular. Magnets and grabber on the left to set the routes (opted out of LED bc this solution was ~$40 compared 2-3K). The noun tension has its Latin roots in tendere, which means to stretch, and tension occurs when something is stretched either physically or emotionally. If you have access to a Tension board or other wood holds, use those at the end of your sessions. Board Etiquette With the recent Tension Board post on r/bouldering I was curious what are people’s unspoken rules for board climbing. Tension Block 2/Lattice mini bar/Captain Fingerfood portable Hangboard. I wanted to make a moon board to train on when COVID started so I did the research on the size, angle, etc. Previously I've been using Mark Anderson's hangboard workout which relies heavily on the slopers and pinches of the Rock Prodigy board and am having some difficulty transferring it over to the tension flash which almost exclusively just has crimps. r/tensionboardclimbing: Board climbing on the tensionboardmembers online Create a post About Change post view “Freeze Dried Twigs” @45° • “Freeze Dried Twigs” @45° We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You can toehook on a board to keep tension (see Adian Roberts) which gives you more tension and makes the moves easier, but you could also do the move and cut loose using more strength. Can someone share how their tension board 2 grading compares to their red point grade (preferably outside, but inside if you’re an indoor climber)? How about to indoor and outdoor bouldering grades? I don’t think the grades matter all that much but it’s a helpful benchmark when planning out some training. It even does the one finger/2 finger hangs well. The Simple Board comes with limited edge sizes, unless you get the modular simple board, while the Grindstone has a larger variety of hold depths. The mirroring isn't that big of a deal to me, it's more about being able to pull hard on skin friendly holds and train relevant movement skills. p. I heard board climbing is really good at building strength as opposed to do the (often coordination heavy, but kinda fun) boulders in the gym, so I was thinking of trying it out. Used an empty t-nut to fasten a bolt for warming up on my flash tension board. I just can't keep my hands on the holds and struggle with maintaining body tension. I've been making a lot of wooden holds for my home wall lately, and have been copying the Tension holds based on the pictures and dimensions on their website. 6 days ago · tension (countable and uncountable, plural tensions) The condition of being held in a state between two or more forces, which are acting in opposition to each other. Where does each training board shine? (kilter, moon, tension) What would you say is the purpose of each of the training boards (kilter, moon, tension)? Also at what angle do you think the tension and kilter boards shine the best? Don't know why people insist on calling all board grades sandbagged when they're more in line with outdoor grades than anything else (but some Moonboard benchmarks are sandbagged, I'll admit). Ultimately, it depends on your goals. I'm really liking the idea of training on my gym's tension board about once a week but not entirely sure how to go about it. The basis We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Definition of tension noun in Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary. I've climbed on the Moonboard and Kilterboard a decent amount in the past and find that the wooden feet lack texture in comparison to plastic or real rock outside. <200 of the 3K problems are actually rated/graded at any angle. Unlike traditional symmetrically-set boards (called systems boards), Tension’s version does not just allow the execution of mirrored isolated movements but is designed to create entire mirrored boulder problems. The Tension Board is the best. I’m wanting to do this for probably 6-12 months to start, maybe indefinitely. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. s. In the USA, tension is a significant contributor to health issues, affecting millions of people annually. 5m Dec 11, 2021 · Tension Board Training The Tension Board is an 8’ by 12’ symmetrically-set board with all wooden holds made by Tension Climbing. Does anyone have any recommendation for workouts involving the tension board that move We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Another issue I've found is I tried the Kilter board at a different location the next session and sent even higher grades than the Tension. How difficult would it be to create one independently of the tension company that connects to the board? Mar 3, 2024 · I have a MoonBoard at home and so have mostly used that over the past five years, but recently started using the Kilter Board more, as the adjustable ones become more prevalent at gyms. I've used all of them and here are my general thoughts, but I will only comment on Kilter or Tension since Moon reviews are everywhere: Kilter Horrible App. Given that many gyms utilize an iPad for it, I have to exclusively use my phone Kilter board imo is a good board for training at 45° and past, not enough load on your fingers at lower angles for folks who climb 7c-8b to be relevant towards outdoor climbing. The feet are often very slippery. Moreover, that board was designed to use outside, to be able to be hung on a tree or something to warmup for crimp stuff. 1. A place to post about, share pictures and progress of, obtain advice for, and… The tension board is very sandbagged, and is a bit more physically involved than most gym climbs. I found my contact strength improved drastically using the Tension Board with some consistency throughout the climbing season as many of the moves can be fairly jumpy. At In my opinion the tension board isn't the greatest for building finger strength with the hold set you have made (which look really good btw). 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Moon is the least comfortable / ergonomic, which is probably why it seems to translate best to outdoors The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. It seemed like there was a lot of conflicting assumption in that thread about what the etiquette is for sharing a board. tfjp mhqi gbja irwt vdyta wyntb iymbcub oaulbs ejegiyh ppusds