Weak half crimp. Just decrease the weight and work your way back up. Sadly, my ego is too weak to even contemplate trying to hang on a half-crimp. It's much safer to train this position in a controlled way on a fingerboard and get it strong, rather than unleashing a weak crimp grip whilst you climb and risk tweaking it. when you train half crimp your open grip will also gain strenght, but not the other way around. Hang/open/drag. According to my Lattice results (screenshot here) I'm one standard deviation in finger strength below the average of people climbing my grades, and hanging 60lbs would put On this topic, does anyone know of a hangboard on the market with offset pinky holds to place the finger in a 90 degree half crimp position? Beastmaker 2K, hold 7 has the deep ring and shallow pinkie combination for this reason, but this strikes me as insufficient when you want to train the pinkie in three and four finger half crimp positions. If you can hang either 3 finger open on the large holds or 2 fingers (one arm) on any of them then I reckon you should be able to climb harder than 7a. Grips Half crimp. [Weight 170, climb 5. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. Unless I am an idiot and have until now misunderstood what full crimping is, which is entirely possible. Mar 16, 2005 · Im not sure where this chisel has come from i assume it means drag?) I just personally find this grip extremely weak. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. The half crimp for the participants weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade ’ performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. I got on a HB because of covid, and it definitely helped bring my half crimp up to snuff. yeh its defiantly worth being strict and training half crimp. The following is a guide to basic crimp techniques - designed to provide for quality terminations and to prevent poor connections. Initially the "textbook half crimp" grip felt somewhat awkward and weak, but it gradually got stronger. I also started bouldering about 2 years ago after 30 and I full crimp all the time. Oct 31, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I can hang BW for a good 15+ seconds dragging on 20mm, but even maintaining a half crimp form on a 45 mm edge is a struggle for me (my fingers naturally slip into a more open grip). How much would that translate to non pinch strength, and how should I adjust my hangboarding schedule and protocol to match? Jan 9, 2025 · What are the best wire crimpers products in 2025? We analyzed 5,459 wire crimpers reviews to do the research for you. Isometric strength tends to be very specific to the angle (about 15-30 degrees IIRC) of the particular joints. 25kg added (8% BW) in half crimp, which is my strongest grip. Your shoulders are too weak to hang correctly. Jan 23, 2025 · Simply use a half crimp position to lift the weight off the ground (do this by straightening your legs rather than pulling with your back or arm). That has improved with the last two weeks of max hangs. ) They kept getting stronger after, but half crimp became a weakness compared to other hand positions at that point. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. hang 4mm full crimp but I can hang 6 mm half crimp for 3 seconds or so and I like pinches etc. I can do 7 seconds of bodyweight on 7mm. Or is everyone’s fingers like this? Or do I just need to practice. So a closed crimp may feel more secure but (for me) my pulling power is reduced. Strip wire wider than the wire crimp tabs, test, adjust until 1-3 mm of wire sticks out the far side of the crimp. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. Nov 14, 2022 · The half crimp and full crimp create much more of this friction than open handed positions, so frequent crimping is the obvious culprit. This led to a weakness for Currently I've been working on my weak index and pinky fingers, utilizing half-crimp and open hand grip positions. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. I'm curious — is your open crimp weaker than your half-crimp? To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. If your crimp Jul 27, 2016 · Can you one arm half crimp any of the larger slots on the BM as I find that much harder than 3 finger dragging the top ones. I'm training on a 19 mm edge. My issue is I simply cannot full crimp. I can half crimp the BM1000 outside edges (18mm?) for about 10 secs with 20kg after a few cycles of training max weight hangs. ouch. When I crimp on the wall the grip depends on the hold, but I try to use half-crimp as much as possible. in this article, we’ll explore the top problems with crimp connectors and provide you with some For example, your crimping strength with full crimp, half crimp, and open crimp will be different depending on how much you practice each of these because of the specificity of strength at a particular joint angle. I cant e g. In reply to Siderunner: The half-crimp is the default grip to train - more so for lime redpointing Drag strength is a funny one as it can be specific to type of hold, proportional finger length, pulp on your tips and heat/humidity. Tender: Wool that is weak throughout the entire length of the fiber. Actually, I train using half crimp on larger holds with weight added. BM2K 14mm lower crimp That's why I want to no-hang at a relatively low weight so I can maintain the best possible form. The following pages illustrate the DOs and DON’Ts of crimpling, and highlight the advantages of using matched cable, terminal and tooling from the extensive AMP product range Mar 24, 2012 · The crimps do not place the same stress in the line, and instead are splitting the tension in half after the crimp, making the line above the crimp the weak link. The super classic half crimp (drawing 1 Reading the comments makes me feel shockingly weak! I've climbed a couple of 8b's (route) and 7Cs (bouldering); yet I can barely hang 10sec with +6kg (69kg bodyweight) on those BM2k edges when half-crimping. Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to switch at? So I've been trying to get to the bottom of why I can hang well I'm half crimp (90% BW on one hand, about right for my grade) and yet using 3 finger drag on the same crimp two handed, I can't even hang my bodyweight. g. how much weight do you have to take off for half crimp?, also how old are you? Closed crimp is fine as long as you are mostly using it for balance and putting a low amount of force on it. My philosophy on it is that full crimp is only useful when your fingers are too weak to half crimp a hold and perform the necessary movement. True open handing means no hyperextension of the DIP joints of any fingers, which is best exemplified by the 3 finger drag as mentioned above. And I think it finally has something to offer me given my own training calculus at this point. These An open hand or slope grip position is relatively safe for a healing A2 pulley, in that the force placed on the A2 during active flexion in an open hand position is far less than it is when the finger is in a full crimp position (or even half crimp). from poor crimps to insulation failure, it’s essential to know the common issues with crimp connectors and how to avoid them. Open hand feels a little awkward for me - I wonder if I'm not doing it right or if my hand isn't made for it. 12c, V7. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. im similar in that my 4open is way stronger. Wow, this is interesting! Not sure if this is problematic. Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. Do this at 3 different horizontal angles (hopefully this makes sense). To summarize, the importance of using the strict half crimp form while Arm-Lifting and hangboarding is still debatable. CRIMPING BASICS - insert terminal in crimper, insert stripped wire, squeeze crimper handles - see pics on this page for terminal insertion positioning. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort. For most climbers, this is the top grip to train, as it builds finger strength, which translates to the broadest range of holds. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. I would suggest spending significantly more effort on the half crimp, or any other very As someone who is weak in half relative to other grip types, but has recently made progress improving half crimp these are the biggest benefits I noticed: Better ability to move laterally off edges using a thumb catch or a pinch. As we do most of our Jan 21, 2018 · I've come to the realization that my fingers are utterly piss weak, most probably at the bottom end for my grade. Too much chance for injury doing half crimp I am a recent convert to training the half crimp. I can hold all of the holds, except the smallest edges, at body weight, with no issue, and do my full 2-3 sets of reps. I do train it on the hangboard. Is this With half crimp and the thumb just flexing in air, I have to actively fight to keep my hand from opening up. There just isn't good data with anywhere close to the resolution needed to say. My fingers are hypermobile and I always score as having very weak fingers vs the grades I climb when I do Lattice assessments with half or open crimp. I climb in a variety of styles + project a lot at my physical limit. Edit2: Many people who think they're 'open handing' holds are actually half crimping because their definition of 'open hand' just means not wrapping a thumb. I probably need to train that more but I full crimp all the time. Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time. (Photo Jordan Hirro) Half-crimp. I call it "semi open-hand" because my middle and pointer finger go into So when people suggest using open crimp, I think I have to just half crimp every hold that isn't a sloper because 4 fingers half crimp is probably still less stress on the tissues than 3 fingers open. Where your pinky is on and half your fingers are in a half-crimp) was what people meant by an "open-handed grip" and that the 3 finger drag was a dangerous grip type that you only really used on slopers or that you fell into when your hand was failing (still not sure if the 3f drag is actually more dangerous than a half crimp?) Jul 10, 2025 · Learn how to wire crimp connectors with these essential steps. Oct 6, 2020 · The end joint of my fingers goes backward about 30-45 degrees and it feels like this is making my half crimp very weak. Remember that you should give your tendons a long time to get stronger, as they develop at 1/3 the rate of your muscles. With tendon pulley injuries, crimp grip loads the pulleys significantly more than an open hand or sloping grip. I used to be weak in open hand hangs, but after multiple rounds of hangboard I was stronger in open hand drag than in half crimp. I have around 140% max hang on 20mm edge in half crimp position with all fingers on the edge but I feel there is no way in hell my back 3 fingers could hold anywhere near that, whereas my front three could easily get close. This article explores specific crimp training exercises tailored for climbers, whether you’re a beginner or seasoned pro. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed -the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. It's cuz you're weak! Half crimp is a great training grip because it's mechanically disadvantaged. Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. And considering the dynamic range of crimping positions and angles while climbing indoors or outdoors, having a significantly weaker half-crimp has undoubtedly influenced my climbing Strong full crimp compared to half crimp. Reply [deleted]• Additional comment actions Is there any commonly used full crimping standard to compare oneself against? Full crimping doesn’t work very well on the BM2K edges because of their roundness, and half crimp correlation to closed crimping also doesn’t seem to be very high (anecdotally/ according to training podcasters). Along with managing the body weight hang with full crimp i tried the half crimp and managed to match you this time ( 10kg assistance) and then also tried drag which required 20kg of asistance. Curl back into the half crimp position, and repeat for sets of 8-10 repetitions with a 5 second eccentric period. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Top: A continuous strand of partially manufactured wool, which has been scoured, carded and combed an intermediate stage in the process of worsted yarn. The slope grip is characterised by a flexion of the finger joints. Rehab Activity #7: Open Hand Farmer Carries This is only necessary for moderate to severe injuries or if you are uncomfortable progressing to hangboard training. I've been hangboarding with strict half crimp and board climbing for a year and still can't hang bodyweight on 20mm with half crimp. I used to chisel almost everything before that training block, now I can do Immobility is a serious issue among climbers; among the half-dozen good climbers I've tested, most could not safely and correctly demonstrate basic overhead mobility on a bar. Quote Nick DrakeOct 15, 2019 · Kent, WA I think pinkies often escape injury because they generally drag or half-crimp, being too short relative to the other fingers to get into a full on crimp very often. Taylor Parsons, an Australian talent known for nabbing the second ascent of Wheel of Life (V15), developed a well-known protocol: do three sets of 10 second hangs (again, with three minutes of rest in between each set) for each arm with a straight arm hang. And I agree with that, I don’t full crimp every V5 out there because sometimes I don’t want to, and half feels better. Nov 22, 2021 · A half crimp is a type of grip climbers use in the sports of bouldering and rock climbing. For the record, I can "easily" do like 10+ pull ups from a 20mm edge with both open hand and half-crimp, but the open handed feels better and more secure. My open hand. Nov 9, 2021 · I reckon half crimp has the worst/longest lever arm and is therefore the most inefficient grip which perversely makes it the most effective grip to train. The chisel (mid two in a right angle at the 2nd joint and the index in an extended position) is a lot stronger than the half-crimp on deep (≥10 mm) flat edges, for a lot of people. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. 12s / V6]. Is this normal? Am I best training half crimped, open, or both? I feel like Nov 30, 2022 · You’ll likely want to mix up your grip position or just stick with a half-crimp. Open crimp you can hang most of your weight on without much risk. I suspect nobody has a definitive answer on this-- and that either grip is good enough. I'd recommend trying out putting your ring finger at a half crimp angle and essentially crimping it (in isolation) against your other palm, the steering wheel of your car, your work desk, or whatever you can find throughout the day to give the joint a little stimulus. It definitely requires more active pulling than closed/open for me. With all the crimpers I sell, crimping is easy once you select the right dies for your wire and terminal sizes. Is it merely a matter of practice, or does the half crimp offer mechanical advantages that could elevate their climbing experience? I've been bouldering ~3 times per week for ~2 years and I cannot hang 20mm bodyweight in half-crimp (or barely hang it for like 2 seconds on a good day). I always had the tendency to full crimp everything whenever possible. It’s not like I’m weak in the position, or don’t know how, but my knuckles will not hyperextend, the most extended position they can be in is a half crimp. so many harder climbs require half crimp too. I recently noticed my open hand is significantly weaker than my half crimp as well. My anecdote: I have always found half crimp unnatural, and weak. Out of curiosity, what does your middle finger do when you crimp smaller holds? Maybe your half-crimp is always going to be a bit weak because of how long your middle finger is? In your case I'd experiment a little bit though, chances are your 3 finger drag might be super comfy. Interestingly, however, I am always told that I am pretty strong on fingery climbs with small holds. Full crimp strength seems to be THE determining factor on a large % of outdoor problems, so it would Anyone got any insight into whether training an individual finger with more of a half crimp grip (90° at PIP) or a more open hand grip (slight bend in DIP, straight PIP) is more beneficial to tendon recovery/strengthening? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I’ve always had very weak pinch strength, and wanted to train it with a pinch block. Jan 25, 2021 · Some people are stronger in open-hand, some are stronger in half-crimp. So your progress is definitely better than mine :D (not sure why I'm getting downvoted btw) All the time control your half crimp/open hand and try to drive force through your top phalange, if you feel like you cant do it anymore, stop. I don’t mean world class but some strengths that are way higher than my grade would suggest that can compensate. Personal anecdote might help, or mislead, basically. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. This is related to mobility but also somewhat separate. I usually end up doing mostly 29mm for front and 15mm for back 3! Feb 1, 2024 · The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. While their default grip leans towards the chisel, they question the potential benefits of the often-praised half crimp. This is exactly why people perform the closed/full crimp position, increased strength. Oct 26, 2021 · 5. Im not sure where this chisel has come from i assume it means drag?) I just personally find this grip extremely weak. Reply reply thecrookedspine • Is my "max output" half crimp just a full crimp? Am I very weak when pulling down with my finger tips, meaning I should start from the ground up and focus on perfect half crimp form? Is the length of my fingers and easy hyperextension at the DIP joint not a good match for the BM1000 20mm edge? Apr 7, 2024 · That's why it may be a good idea to train it separately in the half crimp. But then, I'm definitely weak with my half-crimps -- guess, that being reasonably For instance, if someone had weak "half crimp" it would be better to just add a few crimp climbs to their progression rather than go straight to hangboard because of the factors mentioned above. However the transfer to four-finger edges was poor — I got used to not using my little finger (a terrible habit!). Jul 26, 2021 · All while having the fingers loaded with appropriate force. Nov 9, 2022 · Will is strongest on half crimp, meaning he’s front 3 dominant. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped. So I do want to focus on getting my half crimp stronger but I actually can't hang on a lot of edges with a half crimp. If I want to make a good go of concentrating on my Aug 26, 2024 · Crimping relies not only on your fingers and hands but also on your whole body. I also struggle with the half crimp over open or full crimp. It's the type of incut hold that you would definitely like to full-crimp (the loose definition here being to aggressively crimp with the help of the thumb pressing on the pointing finger), but my fingers don't want to cooperate. Lattice and the like (e. The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. Because it's easier to maintain under load. Nov 18, 2007 · It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. I realized that my half-crimp (as well as my full-crimp), while it uses the same muscles in my forearms as an open-hand, are weak in that particular position. A full crimp puts the greatest amount of force through the A2 pulley. It makes more sense and is more feasible to nstead, work on your open-hand and half-crimp; which utilize the same muscles as a full-crimp but in different ways. For most the half crimp is stronger on thinner edges. I'm thinking of training half crimp with all 4 fingers only 1/2 times a week, and the other times doing mono crimp max hangs, at the appropriate load, for the other 2/1 sessions of the week. I also have weak fingers for my climbing grade but I think those Lattice tests don't tell the whole story. There’s technically no such thing as “crimp strength”, as your forearms are either strong or weak. I consider my half crimp pretty weak (especially compared to chisel or full crimp) but I regularly see myself using it when I watch back videos. Maybe you should look into training wrist stability, if that feels like the weak link. Pain free static dead hangs on fingerboard (start open handed then with half crimp using front 3 then back 3 in all variety of positions, then front 2 back 2) French pull ups and type writers on back 3, back 2 if return to hard bouldering (font 7A and over) Campussing with good technique if you were campussing before the injury. No doubt, half crimp is way more ergonomic in most positions, and if you are overly strong for the grades you climb, then the thumb probably feels more tweaky than useful, so it doesn’t feel right. Try a set of hangboarding repeaters where you consciously dead hang without full crimping. Forget half crimp - I'm weak, weak in that position. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. Get tips on tools, preparation, and inspection for secure connections. Idk why but if it's a small hold I have no chance moving off of it with a half crimp or drag. If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. Apparently the 20mm edge size is a good baseline standard for measuring finger strength. This guide has been produced to help you achieve a perfectly crimped terminal or splice every time. this online finger strength calculator) always claim that my fingers are very weak for the grades I climb. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. See full list on climbing. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance. Its just a little harder to hold that position and my grip would slowly open back up as I got tired. Intense campus boarding on smaller rungs can also play a role, or simply subjecting your fingers to excessive repetitive forces on the wall. *For reference I am having to do max hangs with half crimp at -18 (yes, that’s 18kg taken off with a pulley). See my ring finger is fairly weak and injured but I have always found half crimp to be much more difficult than 3 finger open hand. In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. This is hilarious to me, since I can't hang on a 20mm I decided to give hangboarding a go and I realised I am very weak with half crimp grip. I'm definitely weak at half crimp on 20mm edge - barely hang BW - but I can full crimp like a mofo and crimpy climbs are definitely my style. I keep strict half-crimp form and relaxing to open grip during my sets indicates I'm too weak on that hold. 2 fingers - for non-wads probably just open hand. To develop allround pinch strength, you will need to have the right tools to train both narrow and wide pinches, and if you are weak in either the half-crimp or sloper open-hand grip (more likely), you would also benefit from training these supporting grip types in a more isolated way. Open crimp is a great tool to have, and a great performance grip position. I rarely hangboard but have decided this lockdown to work on my pinky and ring finger strength by using bodyweight hangs. If you use a smaller edge or just keep your feet on the ground can you get it to go into extension? What about in a full crimp or a closed crimp? Mar 20, 2023 · My max hang (7s, 20mm edge, half crimp) is 32 lbs @ 135lbs, max outdoor grade 5. My half crimp is strong. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. I can do 150% bodyweight on 18mm for 10 seconds. Open hand is way stronger than half crimp, as is a A half crimp is essentially the same as a full crimp minus the thumb. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. The half crimp is Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. In general I've found that full crimping makes my grip feel weaker. I've learned to be aware of this and roll into a half crimp when necessary. One or two ‘superpowers’. My full crimp is almost average for my grade I would guess. Basically, holding the end joint of the finger in a straight line is really hard, as it just wants to either go full bent (like in open hand) or fully back into full crimp, and tends to do so with more than a tiny weight*. Here is a little writeup from Lattice training suggesting a stricter half crimp is better for benchmarking. The components of a good connection include: But many people think they are training the half crimp, but in reality they are training the chiseled grip cause they let their index drop. If you can half crimp, then you can full crimp. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. Typically drags can be good for holding holds but a crimp or half crimp gives more stability for pulling on them. I checked each of my fingers individually by just holding weights on a sling, and each finger on its own can do >10kg, EXCEPT my ring fingers which max out around 5kg. . Jan 29, 2019 · Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? I am significantly stronger half crimping than open hand, mostly because I don't do any open hand hangboarding anymore. Half crimp can be trained using almost any grip strength training method, such as Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". I also do full crimp "pulls" on the tension block in order to train the movement of going into the full crimp position. With max strength training more is less and may require sacrifices in other training areas to achieve optimal rest/recovery. Build slowly and with control. No one would full crimp anything if they could half crimp everything, because of the increased chance of injury. Hold for 1-2 seconds at the top before controlling the weight back down to the ground. I used to only do half crimp since I listened to the general advice that it translates well to the others. I saw some big gains in my half crimp after a max hang block changing the angle of my index finger and not letting it drop at all. Feb 9, 2020 · Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not significantly increasing the risk of injury (Quaine). I think that not only are you weak in the half crimp, but you probably aren’t yet recruiting all of your existing finger strength properly in the half crimp. In a full crimp you wrap your thumb around the top of your index finger. When I go to do my routine on the small crimp hold (I am making sure to open crimp, no full crimp or half crimp), I have to take off 60 pounds, if I want to complete the routine for the full 2 sets. My hand assumes a weird "cup shape" in order hang from ex. The half crimp is also advantageous when we need an inward component of the pull and also when we need to gain an inch extra reach . This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. But anecdotally I've found it better to train all 3. It's a much more active grip position, meaning that you're relying more on flexor strength and less on collapsing into the joints / connective tissue. Just be patient in training it, and soon you’ll have an “ah-ha moment” where you’ll find a comfortable half crimp position. You can execute this grip technique by placing your fingertips on a handhold and then curling your fingers at the second joint. I have been working on growing my open-hand finger strength but I have mostly been using a 4 finger semi-open hand grip. Each uses their strength to their advantage and as a result will move slightly differently on the rock. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. Back three is super ergonomic for me, whereas front 3 feels almost impossibly unergonomic on any edge size. My pinky finger is still fully open with no DIP hyperextension and 90 degree pip on the middle finger. Oct 5, 2020 · Is it worth training this half crimp, or is it always going to be weak, given the lack skeletal support in half crimp with the double jointed fingertip. Oct 15, 2021 · To safely practice the half crimp grip, use a hangboard (also called a fingerboard), a practice tool commonly found in indoor climbing gyms. I think in a 3fd your fingers, hand and wrist are pretty much alined in a straight line, not taxing the wrist. I climbed at my max grade after the most recent pinky injury. Crimp connectors are a reliable and easy-to-use solution for joining wires together, but even the best electrical connections can encounter issues from time to time. Does that sound right? EDIT: To further clarify: He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. Is this large strength disparity between half & full crimp common among most climbers? I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. Just goes to show how everyone is different (and training should be done differently too) ! Dec 9, 2019 · Why are you avoiding fingerboarding with a crimp? (or at least a half crimp, as in finger very much bent). I always half crimped everything, not even full crimp (I think I've full crimped like 3 times in my life). The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. Many sources don't pay significant attention to the position of the index finger, while others claim that it's critical for your progress. Dec 24, 2012 · Just curious if folks hang 3 and 2 fingers half crimped, or if you guys switch over to open handed dragging for those. com Jan 13, 2013 · The grip I'm using is strict half-crimp. I have a hangboard but no pulley system to take off weights, do you think no hanging with very light weight would have the same effect? I have tried doing no hangs and hangboarding, and feel strong in the open hand, but very weak in the half crimp. Try the half crimp and see if you have a Hello, I'm 17, 6'0, 74kg, have been climbing for about 3 years with a decent time out due to injuries, and have pretty weak fingers. The full crimp has some strength advantages due to the angles of the finger but that does not mean you have weak muscles overall, just maybe weak muscles for open handed positions. For the past year I’ve trained climbing pretty specifically and can hang open handed on a 20mm with 125% bw (at 80kg). Bend the index, middle and ring fingers at 90 degrees, keep your little finger straight, and rest your thumb next to the index finger. I was doing only open hand (or 'drag') repeaters, and when a buddy suggested I try max hangs with half crimps, I found I was crazy weak! On that same hold you described, I could only do 10 lbs half crimp for 10s. If you can't get into the proper, safe position, you can't do one arms. Simply the hangboarding tests my biggest weaknesses. I can at absolutely max effort hang for 10s on a 25mm edge with 6. Problem selection was critical to select problems that I could climb with my pinky straight up. I think pinky DIP in flexion is normal for lots of people half crimping on a 20mm edge. I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak. Aug 30, 2023 · Navigating the intricate world of rock climbing grips, a climber ponders the value of mastering the half crimp. There is no way to force it, like it is too short and/or too weak. It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. It stresses the tendons much more than the open crimp. Jul 3, 2025 · If the half crimp position is typically where you experience pain, try to choose climbs that limit pulling aggressively with this grip. Sep 27, 2024 · With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. I don't think I've used more than 15 lbs but there has been a noticeable increase in stability while doing normal four finger half-crimps and open hand hangs. I started out with this at like 5 lb since my full crimp was so weak. Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. My half crimp is great. I'm thinking 3 fingers - good to work both positions, especially for front 3. I'm most concerned in 45 degree underclings. totally to 3 sessions a week, maybe 4. Am I a special snowflake? I have been feeling quite tempted to drop the half crimp and train open crimp as my main crimp grip to circumvent the weak link of the index finger, reduce injury risk, and accept that half crimp is unlikely to be my go-to when actually climbing given this defecit. I can do a one arm hang on 18mm for 8 seconds. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. My conjecture would be that two of the main reasons many (most?) finger injuries are ring finger: its length discrepency compared to the pinky - thus in crimp or half crimp it tends to extend more than front two at the DIP joint, so pulleys are stretched more; and secondly poor lateral support from the pinky so you would tend to get more Staple: Refers to the length of a lock of shorn wool; in the wool trade “staple” refers to the longer length wools within a grade. I have been hangboarding more to get stronger in half crimp specifically, and consciously open or half crimping when I can. This position gives my pinkie more access to the hold and puts less force on my index and middle finger. I experienced the same thing when I transitioned from an open hand grip to half crimp.
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