Best rope for glacier travel. In abrasion tests, Dry ropes also achieve higher abrasion .

Best rope for glacier travel. However, this is not the only way to use the phrase; "the best way" can also be followed by of with a gerund: The best way of increasing morale in the workplace is to care about the workers. The bigger the rope team, the less the risk of being dragged into a crevasse in the event of a fall. However, during latest trip I realised carrying the entire coil is heavy work and I wanted to cut it into two pieces. Or glacier travel and short abseils. Jun 17, 2019 5:30 PM EDT Touring along a glacier can be a spectacular experience. How long of a rope do you want for various I use a 8mm x 30m static rope for general mountaineering and glacier travel. 5 Golden Dry - The lightest triple rated rope and I’ve been using it in all areas of climbing with great success: Multi Pitch rock routes, alpine glacier travel, ice climbing, single pitch cragging. Or climbing things on forbidden peak in the north cascades. 5 is the lightest single rated rope and is awesome—I have one in a 50m and 60m depending on the objective. I am looking to purchase a rope for glacier travel and ski touring and I am wondering what length glacier travel rope you use? The Petzl RAD line is 30m and Edelrid make the Rap line in 40m and longer. Apr 13, 2017 · In one post, a commenter maintained that the phrases "I did my best" and "I did the best I could" don't mean quite the same thing. Mastering the basics of glacier travel opens up access to some of the most spectacular alpine climbing & skiing routes in Canada and beyond! Jun 30, 2009 · the prussiks should be put on the rope when you tie into the rope. Be sure to get the Golden Dry version, which is dry treated, a must for glacier travel! Feb 20, 2013 · What sort of rope would be ideal for glacier travel? I have a 10mm 60m rope, but this is quite heavy. Hi, I am considering getting a 30m rope for glacial travel, short rappells and scrambles/ridges with with short technical sections on running belay. Baker, the best spot in the state of Washington to practice your crevasse rescue, glacier travel, and cramponing skills on a complex glacier with features such as crevasses and seracs. Ice axe, crampons, helmet, harness, rope, crevasse rescue equipment. The course includes crevasse rescue, rope team travel, navigation, self arrest, and cramponing. Jul 7, 2025 · In practice, glacier travel is the same as hiking—but you do need a few extra emergency skills. If you aspire to do multi by Michael Powers, IFMGA AAI Senior Guide & Director for Staff Development Question: From the July 2006 edition of AAI's E-newsletter My team and I are traveling to Rainier to climb the Dissappointment Cleaver route and have a question about roped glacier travel. I would strongly encourage everyone to follow best pr Looking to visit Glacier National Park? Check out these Glacier must dos and travel tips from camping & hiking in the backcountry to bus & boat tours with knowledgeable guides. This course takes place on the easily accessible North side of Mt. This article explains how to cross glaciers safely. Alternatively, would you use only one of the ropes with one person having the majority of the coils, and American Mountain Guides Association Instructor Team member Jeff Ward explains the finer details of safely roping up for glacier travel through crevassed ter We offer one of the best and most thorough Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue courses in Washington State. Choosing a Rope for Glacier Travel So, before we get into the specifics as to what the best ropes are for glacier travel, let’s talk about the general criteria you need to fulfill before you can use a rope for this purpose. Eg the sterling photon rope. Be sure to have small diameter cord for the prussiks you bring to go with it, though. Glacier Travel. Antarctica had lots of crevasses, but they weren’t the Mack Truck swallowing monsters that you can get up in Alaska, so the tighter spacing meant better communications and less rope work. 2mm. Anyone setting foot on a glacier would do well to get this book. The rules on when to rope up are purely a personal choice, but the following are generally agreed to by most professional climbers and/or guides: Feb 10, 2025 · Hi all, What would be the potential disadvantages to using 2x 30m ropes, tied together to make 60m to give both people enough coils for crevasse rescue, for glacier travel? Specifically looking at the 6mm Petzl Rad line combined with a 30m dynamic single rope, like the Petzl Volta 9. Jan 2, 2016 · The word "best" is an adjective, and adjectives do not take articles by themselves. That being said, if you're just starting out and want a single, do it all rope for both climbing and glacier travel, a 60m dry rope that's 9. If you choose to travel as a two person team, each climber needs to be highly skilled in crevasse avoidance, crevasse rescue, and have all the necessary gear. Would 40m-60m of 7mm cordalette material be appropriate for glacier travel? Plenty of companies are producing purpose made static rope for glacier travel down to 6mm (see Petzl RAD line, et al). Like you said, if you’re only skiing with one rope, and the rope falls down the crevasse, you’re hooped. Still got my 70m rope. I'm not going to go into too much detail here, but in a team of 2 you should have just under 1/3 of the rope out between Sep 27, 2020 · The vast majority of mountaineering expeditions, along with some hiking and ski touring trips, will all require some form of glacier travel. The best way of preventing a heart attack is to both exercise regularly and eat well. dynamic issue of the “best” rope for glacier travel is a BIG topic. If you are using a 30m rope but both climbers need to carry 50ft of cord to help with rescues, maybe a rethink of the rope choice is in order. Let's take a look: Nov 2, 2022 · Rigging your rope for glacier travel Image: from the highly recommended and hilarious book, “The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, by Andy Tyson and Mike Clelland. This new class will focus strictly on Glacier Travel, Rope travel and Crevasse rescue. The number of teammates, the snow conditions, crevasse sizes, and preferred rescue systems are all inputs Nov 26, 2024 · Mammut Glacier Cord A more robust construction than the Rad line makes the Glacier cord a great workhorse rope for higher mileage or higher friction environments. Nov 1, 2023 · The diameter, length, and static vs. One of the more unnerving things to get use to is how small the knots are when using a 6mm cord. This skillset includes knowing how to rig a rope for glacier travel, including transitioning to and from shorter intervals for steps of moving on rock. , bare ice). Will be used winter with skis and summers on some ridge scrambles and glaciers. The list below covers equipment that is recommended for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Nov 17, 2021 · The best ropes for glacier travel are: The Beal Rando 8mm. We always carry two 30m twin ropes for skiing glaciers. 5mm 70m water proof rope for outdoors (glacier travel and some abseiling). Courses are hut based at the Wapta or Columbia Icefields. Mar 8, 2023 · So, I read so much conflicting information on the internet about this. Jul 12, 2023 · Traveling on a Rope Team Once comfortable with basic snow travel techniques, gaining experience traveling over glaciated terrain on a rope team is a great next step. Jan 2, 2023 · The remaining rope gets tied into butterfly coils and put into the packs of the end people. Sep 8, 2001 · A dry glacier is a glacier (or section of a glacier) that has no seasonal snow on it (i. If using a twin 30m, would it be unreasonably short doubled over for the summit block What sort of rope would be ideal for glacier travel? I have a 10mm 60m rope, but this is quite heavy. The optimum size for a rope team is three to five people. I use a 50 m, 8. Clothing, ice axe, crampons Dec 17, 2018 · For glacier travel, many experts feel that four is an optimum number on a rope team, with three slightly more risky. At 27 g/m, it is a fair bit heavier than the lightest options here, and its stiffer hand makes it a bit bulkier when packed down. Want a rope that will hold up to a little abuse, is 60m preferably in the event crevasse rescue situations arise. This class takes place in the North Cascades and on Mt Baker in Apr 7, 2015 · Side-by-side comparisons of a traditional glacier package (left) and the Petzl RAD System. The climbers at each end of the rope use chest coils, and the middle climbers tie in as shown. Some specifically advertise that their glacier ropes are dry treated, some don't, must static lines including cord don't specify but seem to hold much less water than a dynamic rope. Do I own twin/half ropes, 6mm glacier cords and a few single ropes? yes… but I reach for my 60m 8. Dec 16, 2011 · Glacier travel with 4-5 people on a 30m rope makes for some tight spacing, but then again, it depends on the terrain. Students will form rope teams and practice traveling roped. Helmet ? In Europe, skiers travel on glaciers way more frequently, and they’ve gained more experience with crevasse rescue. Jul 24, 2023 · As an alpine climber, it is normal to use part of your rock climbing system as your glacier travel kit however there are a few key factors that make ropes more suitable for glacier rescue. We teach modern best practices for glacier travel and rescue and hauling techniques. Glacier Travel Course This glacier travel course is the ideal program for hikers, backcountry skiers and climbers who wish to safely learn the key skills for mountaineering in glaciated terrain. Day 1 – Crevasse Rescue and Rope Skills (Squamish) Understanding the required gear Snow anchors Haul: drop loop, 3:1, 6:1 This method of travel is called “long-roping” and its primary purpose is to mitigate crevasse falls. I was looking to see if there was a dedicated th Learn how to rig your rope for glacier travel the right way to avoid annoying or, in some circumstances, dangerous situations. Aug 11, 2013 · A half rope is perfectly fine for glacier travel. " It was the best ever " means either it was the best up to that point in time, and a better one may have happened since then, or it includes up to the present. I prefer and recommend a bi-pattern rope but it's not essential. Baker. From the vast glaciers of Alaska to the towering peaks of the Pacific Northwest, understanding proper rope techniques is paramount for safe and successful ascents. But in the case of a crevasse fall, you must first stop your partner's fall without falling in yourself. For glacier travel: carabiner every time, as you need to be able to escape the system quickly. If you buy something via one of our links, we may earn a commission. When I see a colleague of mine writing such a phrase, I usually point out that it is a kind of old-fashioned affected valediction which, probably, nowadays, a native English speaker wouldn't Oct 18, 2018 · In your context, the best relates to {something}, whereas best relates to a course of action. Rope length for glacier travel Greetings! I want to cut my rope but not sure how to split it. The Petzl RAD Line. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. To pre-rig means you set up additional prusiks on your rope to more quickly aid crevasse rescue. Cut it in half, it’s more versatile for most ski mountaineering. While I'd… What sort of rope would be ideal for glacier travel? I have a 10mm 60m rope, but this is quite heavy. Mar 25, 2024 · Deciding how much climbing rope you need for glacier travel is a product of many factors. In a party of two, we each take in about 5-6 coils, leaving about 15m in between us, and tie stopper knots. . Apr 4, 2020 · Learning how to rope up for glacier travel is a fundamental skill for mountaineers exploring the icy realms of the United States. Apr 23, 2018 · What is the best glacier travel rope that is the lightest weight for big day, minimal gear missions? Don't need to use it rap. Apr 11, 2012 · In the market for a single, dry, over 9mm rope, primarily for glacier travel. Tying into the rope on a glacier. My Glacier Travel Kit Either as guide or recreationalist, this is the standard technical kit I take when traveling on a glacier with significant crevasse hazard. I would keep the triple rated rope for rock climbing and get something like the RAD line for skiing. 5-8. Then, you either re-climb the route again on top-rope solo belay, or jumar/prussik back up the rope, and finally repeat the process for your next pitch. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. For basic glacier travel, such as Baker's Easton Glacier: 2 lockers to tie-in (one rope, one prusik) Petzl crevasse rescue kit Belay device w/ locker Hollowblock w/ locker 2x5m prusik (one used as part of tie-in) 1m prusik A couple spare non-lockers Garmin InReach - once I start climbing this stays on my harness. Suggestions? Not looking to break the bank! Apr 16, 2024 · Tech Talk: Roped Up For ski mountaineering, the distinction between static and dynamic ropes is key. Would a 9mm 50m rope be suitable for a team of three, crossing glaciers in the Swiss Alps? OK, I can't speak about the others but I have both the RAD line, and the Beally gully 7. 5mm for rock climbing so this would just be for snow-related activities. If a snow bridge collapses the knots will likely stop you as the rope digs into the crevasse lip. I have a 70m, 9. Oct 9, 2009 · My question here is what to look for in a rope to be used for glacier travel on Rainier. Among the basic tips and tricks are knowing the best conditions in which to do so and practicing proper safety techniques while doing so. 8mm =====41 grams/meter @ 30 Feb 5, 2025 · Glacier travel requires a specific set of skills and equipment, including the right rope. I am looking to get a rope for glacier travel and plan to start with Mt Baker again next summer. Can always tie them together for rappels or roped glacier travel. Shuksan in the spring which sounds like it will require at least a 60m rope. This technique will keep your rope tangle-free and ready for your next adventure. This includes rappelling cliff bands, roping up for glacier travel, undertaking crevasse and cliff rescues, etc. With a team of two, one climber alone will have to be the counter-weight. You can use any sort of bight not you like - overhand, figure 8, or butterfly. With a two-man rope team the risk is considerably higher – which is why this format should be left to experienced mountaineers. I took a guided climb on Mt Baker last summer and will be taking a mountaineering course this coming winter. 5 mm Sharp rated half rope for moderate alpine routes as well as standard glacier travel. The best advice for traveling in crevassed areas is to be careful and avoid falls in the first place. May 3, 2019 · Mammut’s new Glacier Cord is designed to be used as part of a lightweight rope kit to allow alpinists, mountaineers and skiers to deal with various challenges and emergencies. It is common to use a single lightweight half rope for glacier travel, and many are advertised for this exact purpose. Crevasse rescue, safety and navigation are critical for anyone moving on a glacier. The importance of knowing self-rescue becomes evident when standing in front of a gaping crevasse or while walking a sagging snow bridge that no one wants to cross! The lure of an amazing alpine route sometimes pulls climbers across glaciers before they are ready or without the May 25, 2019 · Ross Hewitt skiing the North Face of Aiguille du Plan - 60 m RAD line body coiled. Plus, it has a bonus feature as part of a minimalist hauling system. Jun 22, 2015 · What are your preferred glacier techniques for a team of 2? Kiwi coil? Lots of butterflies? How many pickets? Also, considerations between a twin 30m or single 60m rope? Thinking specifically about Blue Glacier. Many folks use a 'rando' rope, a 30 meter half rope for glacier travel. Once you are set up for glacier travel, you can pre-rig if you choose. May 26, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. At any rate Oct 20, 2016 · Both sentences could mean the same thing, however I like you best. I am planning to do Mt. People recommending 30m-40m-50m rope for two-man rope teams. “Pre-rig” is simply short for “pre-rigging,” and refers to additional glacier travel systems over and above long roping. It was quite expensive since the weight is low. May 30, 2023 · 6mm hyperstatic cords like the Mammut Glacier Cord and Petzl RAD Line offer big benefits to mountaineers and backcountry skiers — but they come with specific tradeoffs. Jul 4, 2019 · Safe glacier travel requires prudent route finding, the correct equipment and knowing how to use it. The Mammut 8. Here, we have the adjective best, but this adjective is attached to no noun. This video provides a detailed description of one method for setting-up your rope, including spacing between climbers, knots to tie, and considerations for traveling on larger glaciers and in more The 3-day Glacier Skills course is for climbers who want to brush up on the essential skills of glacier travel. Tiblocs work on 8mm ropes but the thought of teeth on a thin line is a little too uncomfortable for me. Use prusik to belay rope team members in and out. If for no other reason, a 30m glacier rope is much lighter than a 60m climbing rope. It's great for glacier travel, works OK with micro traxion and tibloc, more confidence inspiring with nano traxion. May 2, 2020 · This video shows a quick and simple way to set-up for glacier travel and stow the remainder of the rope. Jul 4, 2025 · Learn how to coil a rope for glacier travel with this step-by-step guide. Setting up a running belay is a multi-step process, but, like many glacier travel techniques, it’s really just a series of the same basic steps repeated in various formulations. If we want to travel unroped, my understanding is that the best would be to have another 30m rope so tjat we have both one rope on the glacier in case one of us needs help. The Dry treatment also gives the rope maximum safety even in the most adverse conditions, by ensuring that the cord absorbs practically no water and does not freeze in low temperatures. The Grivel Clepsydra carabiner just might be the best tool for the job: the twin gates will never freeze or jangle open, and the keeper gate prevents cross loading. 6mm? or am I going to have to go smaller? Keep in mind they rope may be wet and iced. In 2016 Petzl recently released the RAD (Rescue And Descent) line rope which is a lightweight rope that can be used with other components of their RAD system for glacier travel, crevasse rescue and abseiling down cliffs. This is very good instinct, and you could even argue that the grammar is good, but at best it's unnatural. Aug 21, 2013 · A short one would be crazy hard to move back and forth. The Sterling 7. Nov 13, 2015 · 5 In Europe, it is not uncommon to receive emails with the valediction With best/kind regards, instead of the more typical and shorter Best/Kind regards. The Beal Opera 8. For skiing unproped on glaciers, most people tend to prefer 2x 30m RAD lines over half ropes. Here’s what you need to know before picking the right rope for you. About the lightest you'll find per meter. Plastic, wood, or metal container? What was the best choice for this purpose? Plastic, wood, or metal container? What was best to choose for this purpose? Either is acceptable, and the practical meaning is the same, but their referents, implicit not explicit, are different. Learn how to choose a rope that provides safety and ease of use on glacial terrain. Takes place on Mt. I'll number the questions to make it easier to answer, any questions answered is appreciated!. I think the most likley consequences of a crevasse fall is usually trauma to the victim - not "the whole rope team getting sucked in". 95 for 30m Diameter: 8mm Weight: 37g/m Rope Type: Twin rated The Beal Rando is a great rope for the aspiring ski mountaineer who isn’t exactly sure what they’ll need going forward. The system comes pre-rigged from Petzl, but it is easy to uncouple the parts and use the RAD Line as a stand-alone glacier rope. Aug 11, 2020 · The essential equipment to include in a glacier travel or crevasse rescue kit to ensure that you can rescue a fallen partner or climb out Aug 22, 2019 · I am new to mountaineering/glacier travel. Mar 8, 2007 · Getting a new Beal 8MM rope (glacier travel) and wondering what size cordelette will work best for prusik's. This class takes place in the North Cascades and on Mt Baker in Washington. Our goal is a light-weight and minimal rack, while covering all requisite items needed for rescue and belay tasks. Be aware that a 30m rope won't leave you enough extra to drop-loop haul on both ends. For just glacier travel with 2-3 people, I recommend an 8x30m rope. I like chocolate best, better than anything else can be used when what one is choosing from is not specified I like you the best. The Beal is also tested as a twin rope, which gives you some extra options, worth considering. Perform team arrest. Students will be informed of admission into Glacier Travel once their applications have been reviewed. Learn how and where crevasses form, and rehearse crevasse rescue and self-arrest skills until they’re second-nature. Apr 28, 2021 · Our standard kit is listed below. It can also be downright scary if you don’t know the route, since as glaciers move 1x 30m Rad line for securing a second where I don’t need a rope. Waiver & Risk Management: Learn rope, axe & crampon use, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, navigation, safe mountain travel and other necessary skills in this 3 day course that culminates with a peak ascent. Because the noun car is modified by the superlative adjective best, and because this makes the noun car definite in this context, we use the. Understanding the basics of glacier travel skills for the Alps. Do you own a 30m for non technical glacier, and a 50m, 60m or 70m for technical climbs? Double ropes or singe? Is there a workhorse rope you use to cover the majority of your more technical Beal Opera 8. Between chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry, I like vanilla the best can be used when choosing from some choices. In abrasion tests, Dry ropes also achieve higher abrasion After reading this page students should be able to: Define what is a glacier and identify some glacier hazards. Travelling on a glacier is an exciting element of exploring the high mountains. One downside you missed is that if you cut it, you can no longer combine it with another 60m rope My friend and I have 2 dynamic ropes: one 50m and one 30m. (As an aside most ropes these days that are twin ropes or half ropes are dual certified as both, but again, you need a rope that is certified for use as a half, not twin) We are excited to announce that High Altitude Mountaineering School (formerly HAMS) has been renamed and reformatted to now be Glacier Travel which took place in 2022. RAD Line: I've used it for glacier travel, and tried rappelling on it. 7-9mm more than anything on glaciers, and alpine rock terrain! That’s a rope I’ve used for glacier routes on Rainier like the Kautz, DC, Emmons. The climbers at each end of the rope need to carry some of the rope in coils in order to facilitate a crevasse rescue. When we replace the superlative "the best" with the normal version, we get this: Nov 15, 2016 · I want to convey the feeling that "do whatever you feel is the best"? How should I incorporate the phrase "deems fit" in my sentence? Steve's suggestion is the best, but if you want to apologise in a more formal way, then: I deeply regret what occurred, and I promise that I will make every effort and do everything in my power to prevent its reoccurrence. Would a 9mm 50m rope be suitable for a team of th Jun 14, 2018 · How to Rope Up for Glacier Travel | travel, glacier, rope | Learn how to rope up with your team for safe glacier travel with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. Only for cragging. Don't believe us ask around. Telemark Pyrenees, the online climbing, trekking and ski touring experts. Usually, it's best practice for glacier travel to have everyone clipped to the rope, not tied into the rope. Sep 8, 2015 · Straightforward glacier travels always involves the possibility of crevasse falls and therefore the necessity to build a haul system or the ability to ascend the rope. This is doubly important if you are the in the middle of a rope team. 8mm Photon. Mar 18, 2024 · In this next episode of our glacier travel series, we are presenting several options for climbers to tie into the rope and how we may choose to match our tie-in setups to our circumstances, gear, and position on the rope. Would a 9mm 50m rope be suitable for a team of th Apr 25, 2007 · The lightest I've generally used are 10mm single ropes and 8mm double ropes. Nov 8, 2023 · For glacier travel, it's usually best practice to clip, not tie, to the rope. Practicing proper rope travel techniques can decrease, but never eliminate, the chances of an injury or loss of equipment in the event of a fall. There are a lot of details about crevasse rescue that mountaineers should know – far more than can be covered here. what length of rope and spacing do you use? a 50m rope with 40 feet between climbers leaves 60 feet of coils used for rescue and rappeling. You don’t want to be dragging so much slack between people unless you are expecting Alaskan-sized crevasses. 5mm is probably best. The method shown is a bit outdated, but it's still a great drawing! I am looking at ropes for alpine glacier and couloir routes in the western mountain ranges and have some questions about rope diameter, strength, weight, and length. Approaching a glacier as a roped team of two A crevasse fall is one of the major risks when approaching a glacier. Ropes For a great breakdown on different ropes for glacier travel, check out this post by Eric Carter. Please correct me if I'm wrong but in my mind the best length would be 70m and a 60m could work if you used slings to lower the droploop. Sterling Fusion Photon DryXP Climbing Rope - 7. What is the best rope for abseiling? Feb 16, 2022 · There are several ropes similar to the Petzl RAD line, a 6mm rope weighing only 22g per meter, but is a ultra-strong (rated to 12kn), hyperstatic rope designed for glacier travel, rappelling, crevasse rescue, and other applications not involving a belay from a fixed point. 0s, or Beal Gullies. Nov 25, 2018 · Are you climbing on a moderate glacier, such as a standard route on many Pacific NW volcanoes, without any actual lead climbing? Consider a static rope. Jan 23, 2011 · You should find a book with a good explanation of how to rig for glacier travel, ie Freedom of the Hills or the Mountaineers series book on alpine climbing. I haven't found anything definitive on this, even in FotH. A rope developed specially for glacier trekking and for skiers and mountaineers - suitable for rappelling, haul maneuvers or crevasse rescues. With half the cross-section, you get so much more stretch at the thinner diameters. May 25, 2022 · "Which one is the best" is obviously a question format, so it makes sense that " which one the best is " should be the correct form. Read our recommendations for safe glacier travel. When crossing a glacier, your rope is there to catch you if you fall into any crevasses (a crevasse is a hole in the glacier that can be hundreds of feet deep). Would a 9mm 50m rope be suitable for a team of th Joe Miller of Team Tender demonstrates how to tie 3 basic knots for glacier travel on a rope team: the retraced figure eight, alpine butterfly, and prusik k What sort of rope would be ideal for glacier travel? I have a 10mm 60m rope, but this is quite heavy. Dec 23, 2020 · Review of Edelrid's Rap Line Protect rope dry treated for ski mountaineering, glacier traveling, rappelling, climbing and more. What’s the standard rope length for alpine rock climbs in the North Cascades? Examples would be the North Ridge of Mt Stuart, the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, or the Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak. Depending on your needs—rappelling, climbing or glacier travel—different lines thrive. Glacier travel calls for a level head and confidence and the best way to build your confidence is to take it one step at a time. If it is true, what is the fine difference between the two? Mar 25, 2015 · The best way to use "the best way" is to follow it with an infinitive. Should work with a prusik, microtraxion, atc/megajul, munter Dry treated? What length? I think for a 2 person team, 20 meters in plenty. Whether for approaching technical Alpine Rock or Ice Routes, or for Technical Glacier Climbs on Volcanoes Such as Baker, Rainier or Glacier Peak. Topics covered include: light-weight rope kits and other glacier travel equipment, when and how to rope up, reading glaciers, winter and summer travel, snow and ice anchors, rope ascension / self-rescue and a lot lot more. The Glacier Mountaineering Course focusses on Glacier Mountaineering and Crevasse Rescue Techniques. With larger groups (more than five people), it’s best to split up into smaller teams because otherwise As others have said, having multiple ropes is best. Jun 20, 2022 · More than a year ago I began writing a small book about safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Length between climbers: 12-14 meter (incl. We're roping up on the glacier here so we need to get our spacing figured out and all our tie-ins. Currently tossing up between getting an Edelrid Rap Line and cutting it in half, the BD 7. e. I use a 30m Beal Rando 8 mm rope for glacier travel and easy technical climbing in parties of 2 or 3. The first part concerns rope length on the glacier, the second part concerns rope type and the third part concerns the diameter of rope one might use. It’s easier to stay out of a cre-vasse than to extract someone out of one. Oct 21, 2021 · Best Application: Glacier travel, crevasse rescue, rappels Price: $74. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You and When you're out of rope, take the coil off your shoulders. Double ropes are good for efficient climbing of meandering lines and the lighter 8mm ropes are suited for rappels, glacier travel and safety line–using it as a single rope for the latter 2 applications. Oct 20, 2016 · Both sentences could mean the same thing, however I like you best. Why do glacier travel people need to belay with ATC's? Mar 18, 2024 · In this next episode of our glacier travel series, we are presenting several options for climbers to tie into the rope and how we may choose to match our tie This is specifically for general glacier mountaineering (standard routes on Rainier, Baker, Denali), just so I'm clear on the application. I have an 8. 5 I had a 30m rope, but never used it for anything other than glacier travel. Jun 29, 2021 · Rope Considerations for Glacier Travel What type of rope should I use for glacier travel? This particular question is a moving target, and has three distinct parts. It is best not to do something. Jun 29, 2023 · When it comes to crossing a glacier it’s pretty easy to cut corners for comfort, I see it all the time. The Glacier Travel Mountaineering For anything where you’re placing cams, nuts, or screws for protection, though (or for extensive glacier travel), you should be using a dynamic rope. We prepare our students to go out and lead routes that require glacier travel on their own, teaching people to rig the rope for glacier travel, and use mechanical advantage to preform crevasse rescue as well as self-rescue by using improved ascenditon techniques. I know things can vary, but I'm looking for typical rules. 2-9. braking knots), Both climbers having 2 times the length between climbers in coils To maximize the time we get to spend on snow and ice the course includes a night out in the alpine. Carrying hauling equipment and knowing hauling techniques is an essential precaution. Finding the correct spacing between May 8, 2011 · The 8mm 30m Beal Rando Dry Cover Rope is exactly what you need for technical descents that involve short rope work or glacier travel. Jun 17, 2019 · Powder aims to feature only the best products and services. Travel as an efficient rope team member. Explain how to detect a crevasse. Nov 9, 2010 · I now go even closer in AK too. At the top of each pitch, you build a new belay anchor, and then rappel back down to clean your bottom anchor & your intermediate pieces. I also have a 35m single rope that was cut from a damaged 70m. Use the tail end of the rope to wrap the coil together and tie it off. May 29, 2023 · So, " It is the best ever " means it's the best of all time, up to the present. 3 which is a very skinny dynamic rope. 7mm Alpine. Perfect for glaciers of the Pacific Northwest with moderate crevasse sizes, small packs Mar 18, 2024 · Preparation for glacier crossing should be meticulously prepared and rehearsed, so that no time is wasted either setting up the basic moving-together system or any of the techniques that may subseq… What you want is a half rope. No experience required but you should have good hiking fitness and be able to carry an overnight pack. Aug 11, 2017 · This two-day crevasse rescue and glacier travel course is designed to give you the skills you’ll need to get into the alpine this summer. Here's a link to some articles on my website that take a closer look. I'm looking for a mountaineering rope primarily for glacial travel, but flexible enough for some more general mountaineering in the cascades. It is thus Feb 3, 2005 · so---what is the proper technique for using a 30m rope for glacier travel in a team of two? the best i can figure is that the team of two kiwi coil in with enough--maybe 4 or 5 coils on each climber to build an anchor/start hauling if necesary? then rig everything else like you were on a normal r What is more preferred for glacier travel: static/hyperstatic ropes like a rad line or something like a dynamic alpine rope? I’d imagine you don’t want to fall on a static line into a crevasse as that would hurt pretty bad, but it seems like people love the rad lines? I’m a total noob to glacier travel so any advice is appreciated. This rope is best used when your partner has another 8mm 30m rope as then you have many possibilities for traveling through crevasse riddled territory. Explain what is a crevasse and how it is formed. You will learn how to rope up, knots, snow anchors and self arrest. Dynamic Lines: Half & Twin Ropes Narrower, and therefore lighter, than a standard climbing rope, half and twin ropes (7. Connect to the end or middle of a rope team and set up for glacier travel. | By Outdoor Research | Hi, I'm Jeff Ward, an AMGA instructor team member. The day will also include practicing crevasse rescue scenarios. Of course lightweight kits like this have been available for some time, the most well-known being Petzl Jun 16, 2016 · Students about to learn how to rope-up for glacier travel on the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy Dec 5, 2003 · I would not hesitate to use a half rope for glacier travel. That way you don't have to try and tie it on after falling in. Would a half-rope like the Tendon Alpine ST 7,9mm be suitable for this purpose? I could always cut one of my regular climbing ropes, but was wondering if a buying Glacier Gear. Prusik up a Our Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel course covers the gear necessary for glacier travel and rescue and a wide range of glacier travel techniques, glaciology and how to perform crevasse rescue in various scenarios. This article explains in detail how to hold a falling climber, build a snow/ice anchor and perform a crevasse rescue for a team of two, three or more. At this time, we’ll issue any gear needed for the day’s activities, before going out to practice coiling, belaying, and stacking the ropes on the snow covered dry land glacier travel day. For non-skiing glacier travel, a 40m rope is more useful than a single 30m rope. Expecting this may be used for 2, possibly 4 people depending on whether or not we can convince someone. I would love a 40m rope for some other mountaineering stuff. Pre-rigging for glacier travel: Opinions differ on whether you should "pre-rig" your rope for glacier travel. The circumstances of my crevasse fall in 2000 should never be used as an example of how far apart to tie in for glacier travel. Unlike avalanche safety, glacier travel does not have a national body defining best practices and promoting research. Our plan is to have the roped leader and end person tied into the rope (9mm, 60 meter) with a figure eight and the kiwi coil tie-off Apr 21, 2024 · Hey all, looking to get some 30m twin ropes for glacier travel and short technical sections on alpine routes. Hopefully Eldorado, Baker, and maybe Rainier this season as well Jul 24, 2023 · Gaining access to routes guarded by snow and ice often leads climbers to learn the nuances of glacial travel. My wife and I travel over glacier with 15m rope between us, three figure 9 knots over the four metres closest to each person. icku fczcure hhnjw xwrmtb ksetn ixjrk xmabr vuaz nbu xgbyy