Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit. The most common thickness (0.

Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. And yet, not alot of talk about them here, which seems a shame. Therefore it allows designers to create thin slings but you do have to ask yourselves what will happen during a fall as Dyneema is bad for absorbing forces unlike Nylon. Good luck with your project! I personally use the thicker nylon webbing rather than the Dyneema slings because of these issues. 5kN (sketchy). 3-5 meters) to the main line? I'm a happy Paria guyline user (1. This has a 200 denier woven nylon face fabric which will last longer than even the heavy weight hybrid DCF with polyester 150d face fabric. The main reason dyneema isn't used in climbing ropes. tying a knot in dyneema/spectra dramatically reduces the strength of it. If I am setting up a quad top rope anchor on two bolts which are rather far back, and I'd like to extend where I clip in the accessory cord, would dyneema be safe? The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. The carabiners are very good at orientating themselves, and even if they get cross loaded usually they're still stronger than half the gear you'll put in the wall and should hold most ordinary falls. It’s the new “tech” materials (dyneema, spectra, etc. I sometimes carry one 120 cm TIED nylon sling. In regards to fiber reinforcement Dyneema X Gridstop and X-Pac both use fancy PET fibers. In a pinch, a nylon sling or cordelette is a good alternative to your normal prusik loop - Anything made with dyneema is a less safe option as the ~300F~ melting point is much more attainable than that of nylon's ~400F~, it's also more suceptible to physical damage from abrasion. Store flat or gently coiled in a dry bag or cabinet. Dyneema Composite Fabric Dyneema Composite Fabric, or DCF, is the new kid on the block when it comes to tent fabrics. Easy to untie and use for rap tat. In the Long book on anchors he talks about nylon cord equalizing better. right, I know that dyneema is lighter, more malleable (less chunky slings) and is slightly stronger, but does it have any other advantages over nylon slings? and do nylon slings have any advantages over dyneema? I've just bought some new I feel like this is a pretty good article on the subject: Tent Fabric 101: Nylon vs Polyester vs Dyneema/Cuben Generally, I’m ok with either. Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. Titan 5mm (dyneema): 13. Jul 2, 2024 · Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. The smaller sizes are like strong, low-stretch string. 2 micro cord and been ok, but at that point, prusik/taught lines work better Ideally cord can hold knots, and dyneema is too stiff and slick to do so effectively. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. First Reddit post! Ok so I am debating whether to pull the trigger on the standard Aer City Sling or wait for the X-Pac to restock. Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. The problem with knots in dyneema is that the dyneema is slicker than nylon, and won't reliably hold knots. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. No So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. I'd considered getting the Dyneema version but it feels too thick for sling use (unlike the Aer Tech Sling 2 that I love), packing that much weight would be murder on my back without the balanced suspension of a backpack/ Cordalette (according to Leubben, Long, and McNamara) is typically round climbing rope between 4-7mm. 51) is also quite transparent. Should you go for nylon or Dyneema? Is a daisy chain the same as a runner? And what are they actually for? In this guide, we break down the three $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set $100 solid straight/bent 16mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set $130 solid straight/bent 25mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set $150 solid straight/bent 16mm x 17cm nylon 10pc set I would prefer the mixed set for what seems safer to me, but I don't know how hard it is to grab on to 11mm dyneema. Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. Have you ever wondered what the difference is between a nylon sling and a Dyneema sling? Is it safe to use Dyneema to attach to an anchor? Or what about using Dyneema as a friction hitch? Apr 20, 2006 · I'm sure this has been asked before but thought I'd ask again for a bit of clarity as I'm slightly confused after the recent threads about dyneema slings. EDIT: the 6mm with lockers I mentioned above usually gets pressed into service as my 3rd hand when rappelling. The main thing is to find a way to stretch the webbing tight over the frame before stapling. Do your research and use your judgement. Nylon, on the other hand, is more flexible, stretchy, and affordable, making it a good option for general climbing applications. Dyneema is stronger, more durable, and hydrophobic, making it ideal for anchor building and high-load applications. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. How do polyester slings compare to nylon and Dyneema, and why are they never mentioned? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Depending on how you're setting up your rappel, if the knot slips, you'll either- Shockload your system when your belay/rappel device relocates to the terminal end of the sling, which could be extraordinarily bad, especially if you're right at the start of a rappel with little rope in The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. However, you don't really need to tie a knot in it, just a few wraps around a post, bring the two bights together and throw a biner in them. There are a ton of options - you can go nylon, cordura (nylon), ballistic nylon, polyester, cotton canvas (waxed or not), and then specialized materials like xpac, dyneema, etc. Thats why Dyneema has little bits of coloured plastic in them too - they're nylon to help improve the wear life of the sling. Polyamide is nylon and often a bit lighter but I hear the UV resistance is considerably less. In fact, this is one of the highest scoring slings in our comparative testing Feb 25, 2019 · Polyester shows significant promise for tents, but we’ll continue to predominantly use nylon until we’ve done enough testing to be confident that the advantages of poly outweigh its drawbacks. I use them with a marlin spike hitch and whoopie slings on my hammock, but you could use them with any number of other ways to hang the hammock. 0s tend to be reached for first, perhaps out of comfort. Nylon grips better. When dropping down into a canyon with risk of abrasion on the rock due to a lack of bolting, would it be safer to tie a rebelay with dyneema sling or a small static rope (ie. Apr 11, 2019 · The Mammut Contact Sling is the perfect example of what can be gained by using the top of the line technology, in this case Dyneema fiber, to lower the weight and size of a product. Nylon will exhibit a lower peak force in the system than dynema, speaking on shock loading. Maybe between nylon, dynex (BD), dynema (mammut ones), titan/spectra. Unless you are racking up every piece of gear you own for a big wall, the extra weight/bulk is probably not a problem. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. Dyneema in general does not absorb as much force as nylon does in anchor situations. To date, sewn runners and accessory ropes are made from the same material. You have to tie a knot in it to make a loop. But is quiet, stretchy, and packs much easier. Apr 12, 2019 · The Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner is a low bulk and low-weight Dyneema sling that's most notable feature is a rubberized plastic sleeve that covers the bar tack, including the end tabs that often stick out and have a propensity to hang up on carabiners, making it particularly efficient for use as alpine quickdraws. Jun 24, 2024 · How Does Dyneema Compare to Other Materials? Dyneema vs. The 8. But, tying a knot in your standard dyneema sling is acceptable so long as you know the limitations and don't put yourself in a situation where you could potentially be putting a ton of force on the sling (which you should be doing regardless of using a dyneema or nylon, knotted or unknotted sling). Specifically the nylon VS Dyneema flooring of the Durston xmid pro 2+. This means that a rope, cable, or fabric made from Dyneema can provide the same strength as a steel counterpart while weighing significantly less. It's not like dyneema slings with overhand knots are required for anything. Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about static vs dynamic loading and such. Understanding the properties of these man-made fibres will guide us to best practice at the crag for using such products. I also love the "adutchable" Dutch clips! Reply reply More replies yurkia •. Dyneema is super waterproof and seems more durable, but is loud, doesn’t stretch, and flaps in the wind more (makes it hard to sleep) Silnylon is water resistant, not proof, and seems less durable. This is for sport, of course (2 generally r/onebag is an 'urban' travel community devoted to the idea of helping people lug around less crap; onebag travel. Jan 23, 2025 · Nylon vs. Be aware that the strength does vary depending on the type of material: Nylon 5mm: Only about 5. What Are the Advantages of Nylon vs Dyneema® Slings? Choosing material affects weight, durability, and performance under load. Post your speculations, ideas concerns. I think anecdotal evidence would say similar. Nylon does not degrade over time in proper storage. Nylon's principal advantage over Dyneema is that it costs Normally nylon when used in tent production is silicon coated, so called silnylon. Note that age is not on that list. However, nylon has a few notable advantages. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock. polyester/nylon paracord (e. The nylon sling is often rated significantly lower than the dyneema sling, yet when both have a sufficient dynamic force (dropping a few hundred pounds with a fall factor of 2), then routinely the nylon sling survives and the dyneema one does I wouldn't do a challenge with it because the face fabric is only 150 denier (although the dyneema layer could handle a challenge no prob). You can't do this with dyneema, because it's so slick it doesn't hold knots well. pros for nylon- lasts longer and more resistant to cutting? dynex and dyneema are obvious Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the manufacture of slings and quickdraws. If you can eliminate that risk in the first place Similar to the great debate of nylon vs dyneema sling tethers, the answer is to just not put either in a situation where the distinction would matter. ) dyneema: lighter, louder, less durable, low heat resistance. What materials have you used first hand that didn't hold up and you wouldn't buy again? edit: I appreciate all the responses folks but I mean more along the lines of actual failure, like by ripping or abrasion or stitchholding Feb 25, 2012 · so I am looking into replacing my old slings and was wondering what people's opinions where about the different kinds of sling materials. Cheaper and more durable, the sheath protects the core which hold most of the strength. BD slings are probably most popular just cause BD is ubiquitous. Edit: Thank you everyone for the input! I ended up going with the waxed canvas. There's also the issue of knot creep because dyneema is so slippery. The number of lines in the middle indicate the strength. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video (DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. There are tools made just for this purpose that are relatively inexpensive. So dyneema slings tend to be thinner and lighter than conventional nylon slings. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. 6 g weight jump moving from 7/16″ Dyneema slings to 1/2″ hybrid slings and another big jump of +117. I reached out to Dan's team and I received the following response talking about the two fabric floor options. Dyneema? What about a standard anchor configuration with a knotted sling? Do multiple knots in the same cord decrease the strength HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. 550 para has a static load rating of 550lbs, so the working load is still considerably higher than nylon braid. Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. I remember looking into a ton of options for a PAS and just kindastopped. The working load was rated for 68lbs. The sling is dyneema, a material known for sheering itself when tied into knots and for completely failing if shock loaded because of how static it is as a material. knotted dyneema has ~50% strength reduction, which on a 22kN sling is 11kN, or still well within safety margins for some applications. Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. In conclusion, both Dyneema and Nylon webbing slings have their advantages and disadvantages. 5kN. A flat dyneema or nylon piece of webbing in a loop sewn closed is usually referred to as a sling. Today, your rack might include everything from dainty 16 mm Dyneema runners to hefty 25 mm nylon slings. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. i can't find literature that says only nylon specifically, but they do specify dyneema on the contact sling, so i assume this has no dyneema in it. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. I prefer nylon slings because they don't break in many of the situations that dyneema does break. Get some nylon accessory cord for your friction hitch. ) Is there much of a difference in strength loss between cord and webbing? What about nylon vs. Make all kinds of pre-made gadgets out of it from prusik loops, soft biners, adjustable loops, all kinds of fantastic stuff and they take up almost no room/weight. 9 grams per foot. UV. this EL Wood paracord)? (First of all, is it the outside (mantle?) that is of the different fiber?) Is there much difference in friction? strength? UV resistance? something else? Thanks. Additionally, unlike steel, Dyneema does not corrode or rust, making it a more durable I'd say no. What's the resulting difference between nylon/nylon paracord vs. While Dyneema® has a much greater strength-weight ratio (static load) than nylon, its Jul 17, 2018 · I've been researching Dyneema vs Nylon slings, and I feel like I need experienced opinions on this. Depending on the situation I'll either use single length nylon slings or a knotted double that I clip into the anchors. That's almost twice as heavy as slings, but you get maximum possible adjustability, and a wide range of hardware options and easy knots. The benefits outweigh the risks. You can buy nylon slings by the meter, which are sewn as sewn slings or quickdraw slings. I'm in the process of starting my trad rack and one of the things that I'm trying to decide is whether to make my alpine draws out of Nylon or Dyneema. Would you wear them? Why or why not? Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. Nylon cord is the most common. Learn how to choose the type you need. Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. I'm planning on picking up a Defy Insidious sling and they offer it in waxed canvas and a ballistic nylon. However, I'll say that my Black Diamond nylon 18. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. iirc working load is usually about 1/3 of the rated static load. These materials exhibit different strength characteristics: The inherent stretch of woven fabrics can actually be a good thing as dynamic loading (ie gusting wind) can cause non-stretch materials to fail catastrophically. I love the rough, rugged look of the standard 1680d Cordura ballistic nylon, but I also love the idea of the waterproof nature of the X-Pac material and the other small added upgrades. go for the normal nylon for it's stretching capabilities. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. Only thing to keep in mind with nylon vs. (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. You probably could get the $550 retail price if you have a little patience in trying to sell it. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema NYLON Pros cheaper colorful stretchier (more dynamic during falls = less impact) easier to untie [weighted Moreover, certain knots (like the girth hitch) will have a tendency to cut through the sling when dyneema is under load (doesn't happen with nylon). Alpine Quickdraw: Nylon or Dyneema? My apologies if this has been posted before. When you fall on a knotted sling you are flash tightening the knot, which creates a lot of friction which an melt thin dyneema. Dutchware dyneema/polypro straps are only 4. Easy to understand. Or so said Hugh Banner when I talked to him about it Thats most likely why BD have not gone to dyneema slings on their camalots - so that they don't need to be reslung as often. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. It is a stronger material compared to nylon and therefore can receive the same strength rating as a nylon sling while using less material. It doesn't really matter in the end, you could go with any certified brand. Has anyone ever heard of a situation where prussiking with slings has melted them? Is this a real threat, and is it necessary to throw a sling away once it's been used as a prussik? I've been told that the friction between the sling and the rope is high enough to raise the temperature enough to melt nylon and dyneema slings. My gear choices are Gossamer Gear Mariposa and the One Tent Or HMG 2400 and Zpacks Duplex The latter seems Robic is just a very high quality ripstop nylon as far as i know. 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. You can use it with standard line-locks if you put a slippery half hitch in front of the line-lock tunnel. Jun 7, 2024 · A skinny Dyneema sling is best for this. People like the Mammut slings a lot as well. Apr 16, 2025 · Climbing Slings Demystified: What to Use and When to Use It Not all slings are created equal. I like how a Dyneema sling fits into skinny cracks (useful when slinging flakes) but prefer to use a nylon sling when slinging more rounded features. It uses PU coating and/or DWR for water resistance. The sheathed stuff is easier to tie knots with. This sling retails Some people use 7mm cordelettes (10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings (22kn), and some people use the rope. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. Add in that spectra and dyneema are more expensive, and the only advantage of these materials is that they are smaller and lighter weight than nylon pieces. Recently, been looking at their slings and backpacks. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. $450 used is what I've seen. Tech cord 5mm (aramid fiber): 22kN!!! For comparison: Nylon 7mm: ~13kN Nylon 8mm: ~17kN Strength of nylon does go up significantly with a bit of extra bulk/weight. BUT! I'm not crazy about the shiny sheen of the X-Pac model, and more What are you using it for? Paracord is a good general purpose cord but for any given application, there are better options. Thin ones (Dyneema) For those who like to take glas bottles up the mountain Same. My conclusion is that in the real world It is true that the dynamic element will absorb a large part of the force, but considering how a knotted dyneema fail at low force, I wonder if a cord or nylon sling would be a better option for belay station, and keep dyneema for extending pros When it comes to wearing a small cross body sling, it seems canvas (nylon and polyester) seems to be the more popular option. I've used Vs with 1. It’s become a bit of an ongoing point, but one that seems like it hasn’t yet sunk in with many climbers out there–that is, the inherent differences of Spectra/Dyneema and good-old nylon. Mar 2, 2016 · This table shows the +147. I don't own a hollow block. For repeated use, probably not the best material to slide on the rope, but it will work to get you out of a jam if you need to use your slings. So, you can use either nylon or Dyneema to ascend the rope. Is this accounted for in the comparison? Petzl makes the recommendation solely based on the brake strand orientation should the cam get blocked. So Dyneema is really strong in a static setting, but can break a lot easier than nylon when loaded dynamically. Nylon or plastic based webbing is ideal for outdoor use. 5mm, dyneema core) 23g per 50ft but strong enough I don't worry about it breaking during storms. Plus nylon has the tendency to stretch under load, and some knots are a little trickier with the slick surface that nylon usually has. Its still a rip-stop nylon but Posted by u/CordurAddict - No votes and no comments Feb 22, 2023 · You can easily find a good test that informs this. Sep 1, 2023 · In the battle between nylon and Dyneema for the best material for climbing slings, it might seem that nylon is slowly losing the battle. Anyone have any experience? What do you like and dislike about it? Defy MFG Bags LINK The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. Total weight is only a couple ounces for two 10 foot straps. I bring tied nylon slings and I can leave something behind on raps or to reinforce the tat that is there quickly, easily, cheaply, and safely. It’s useful to watch some of those videos. Help me decide, both have their merits. Dyneema has a much lower melting temperature than nylon. , this Atwood vs. Just for the record, if you played out the scenario described for dyneema with nylon instead, there is still a chance the sling would break (though less), you would probably blow any natural pro, and there's a more than good chance that it would cause internal injuries to the climber. Lineloc 3's require somewhere around a 2mm line and minis require about 1. The price is much more expensive and as a general rule DCF also has a reduced useful life but this primarily matters only for a heavy use situation like long thru-hikes. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. Yeah, I generally just use slings because it works with either swinging leads or blocks. 20 lbs). Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. I have used my dyneema slings as a prusik to ascend in self rescue scenarios and have put it back in my rotation, but I would be hesitant to do the same with rappelling as it produces much more heat. Nylon slings offer elasticity (10–15%), superior edge abrasion resistance, and UV durability (85% strength after 1,000 h i think it's a nylon sling, not dyneema. ago By the way, my ILE Default Blackout Patchwork is probably constructed from more different fabrics than any other pack: VX21 X-Pac, X50 X-Pac, 500D Cordura / 275 Dyneema Ripstop, and 1050D Ballistic Nylon. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. I carry a mix of Dyneema and nylon slings. Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Other than the sheer difference in bulk, why wouldn't I change? The Dangers of Short Static Falls - Why nylon slings are better than Dyneema comments Top Add a Comment bearbreeder • 11 yr. Yes, knots in slings/ropes reduce their strength and u/enkoopa is right, if you are taking 11 kN whips on this stuff you are doing something dangerous. It was getting too complicated. These polyethylene ropes are stronger and you can use a thinner rope for your anchor. X-Pac is more complicated. Jun 15, 2020 · So the idea is: Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyne e ma slings in size/weight. For ultralight stuff, you probably want amsteel, dyneema, or spectra line. The most obvious is the fact that it is far more affordable than Dyneema, which is one of many reasons why the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is an ideal choice for budget-conscious climbers. The unsheathed stuff is stronger per unit weight. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. Drop tests with short nylon vs. I’m really digging my Defy Void admin pouch: it’s essentially a ridiculously glorified tool bag but its super over engineered build and materials put a smile on my face everytime i use it. Looking at all the slings and quickdraws we've tested over the years, I'd say there are two main factors that cause a reduction in strength: Abrasion. Materials Of Ropes, Cords And Webbings: Nylon Vs High Strength Polyethylene e. Climbing slings are a staple in every climber’s gear bag—but with so many options, it’s easy to get confused. Something to consider. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. It's often discussed around these parts what is the most durable fabric to use for bags. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Yes, lawn chair webbing should work. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 6 g when moving to 5/8″ nylon slings. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. Here's a link to remind us why ropes break at the knot and here's a link to remind us why knotted slings are more dangerous than sewn slings FWIW dyneema knots will slip more than nylon knots, making the second video more appropriate for this thread. Dyneema Slings When it comes to climbing slings, the choice between nylon and Dyneema can significantly affect their load capacity. ) that lose strength rapidly with time and use. Oct 29, 2007 · Yes, dyneema/spectra melts at a lower temp, but just take it easy while using it. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra or technora it's probably not strong enough for the application. Spectra/ Dyneema I personally prefer using nylon ropes over any high strength polyethylene variety such as Dyneema or Spectra. It has some of the best properties of both including a very high static strength and decent abrasion resistance. Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. There are ample resources on […] Jun 20, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. And if you got some cash to upgrade your gear it might be worth it just for the peace of mind. An ultra 200 fabric tent? (Ultra is 70 PE/30 poly with laminate, being used for new backpacks) Virgin uhmwpe fleece, inherently waterproof, would pair well with silpoly poncho or by itself, great for socks Is there a way to overcome the slippery less of virgin material in fine denier to make rain jackets, down Jacket shells, tents etc Cheap uhmwpe sling I haven't tested it but Z-Line should be pretty good since it has a dyneema core. I have a roll of dyneema arborist throw-line I use for most of my outdoor rigging. Regular nylon or nylon hybrid seems to last forever. Dyneema X Gridstop is ripstop nylon with a PU coating but has Dyneema branded fiber reinforcement with a very tight grid pattern. Sep 4, 2010 · The crux of the matter is UV damage - dyneema/spectra material ages faster than nylon due to sunlight. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. But whether you’re sport-climbing granite faces, racking up trad leads, or chasing alpine objectives, the age-old question persists: What exactly sets runners apart from slings, and when should you pack which? In my experience the 210d Dyneema Grid is more abrasion resistant than than the X21RC X-Pac, but X-Pac is waterproof (if you seal the seams), and both are decently durable. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. There are so many considerations that come into play when choosing a tent that other features will weight the final decision much more heavily. The results were quite shocking to me. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? What's "safer" for wrapping around natural rock anchors with a small risk of abrasion? Static/semi-static rope or dyeema sling? We have ropes, cord, nylon slings that work great and don't fail under these unrealistic tests like dyneema. For a recreational user like yourself, consider replacing dyneema slings every three years, and nylon slings every five. Spectra/Dymeema is the latest-greatest material in slings, cordage, and even backpacks…but not knowing its shortcomings is potentially deadly. It's waterproof and can't Dan Durston elaborates more on this nylon vs silpoly on his website: “Focusing on strength vs. It's much safer imo. Steel As mentioned earlier, Dyneema is up to 15 times stronger than steel on a weight-for-weight basis. 3mm. Dyneema is that nylon is a lot more dynamic. Dyneema Webbing Dyneema webbing, on the other hand, is the new kid on the block. Apr 20, 2006 · In reply to CJD: Nylon is harder wearing than Dyneema. Jan 1, 2017 · Dyneema is produced from ultrahigh-molecular weight polyethylene and is super strong. Traditional webbing is made from jute fiber, so is for indoor use only, as it's not water or mold proof. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Also to note, aren't the slings covered with a nylon sheath? Which would help prevent a problem with friction. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. Didn't want to overcomplicate things. weight, water absorption means that any strength advantage nylon has in dry conditions can disappear in wet/stormy conditions (where you most need that strength) because it gives up 10% strength while potentially doubling in weight. That sling is a composite construction of dyneema and nylon. Couple thousand lbs in a few mm, stupid light. dyneema loop slings. Straightforward. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Since Dyneema is so much stronger than Nylon, slings made with it can cut serious weight, if you look at it from a percentage standpoint, as well as bulk. The second rope is introduced into the system the rope is acting as the dynamic decelerator on a much longer timescale compared to either the dyneema or nylon sling, so both are essentially treated as static in those cases. Rock climbing gear has come a long way since the first nylon loops of the 1950s. However, these tests are on static loads, and a dynamic rope changes this considerably. *Weight data was pulled in March 2016, and included widths and weights for 90 different single slings from 21 different brands with single slings between 50 cm and 80 cm. Thanks for the detailed review. I get it. 1 line correspond to 5 kN. Fewer items, packed into a single bag for ease of transport to make traveling simpler with more focus on the experience than the logistics. Now, when it comes to tents that have an either-or choice, like the Naturehike tents that you mentioned, I Real world differences compared to nylon/polyester. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Nylon is also more grippy and is generally a better choice when you want to create a more secure placement from less prominent natural features like rounded bollards. Curious to know what people's opinions are on small leather slings. DCF packs larger and must be folded and rolled as stuffing slowly weakens the material. I know that dyneema slings in climbing do degrade in the sun, and finding one at an anchor means you need to test it to make sure it doesn't turn to dust if you weight it. Share your videos with friends, family, and the world May 12, 2025 · Cleaning & Storage: Hand‑wash slings in mild detergent; air dry away from direct sun. Let's talk about the other end of the spectrum, how about the least durable. Use for 60cm Nylon sling For what cases do you specifically use nylons slings? Someone gifted a couple of nylon 60 cm slings but I never take them with me because I find dyneema more convenient. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. The most common thickness (0. My gf put some earring in my rofmia sideattachments pouch and it poked a small hole in the material, easily. g. Before you link me to other threads of nylon vs dyneema, please read the response I got from Dan's team below as this is not normal dyneema. I highly recommend dyneema over nylon though because nylon gets really bulky when you have a lot of them. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. With a Dyneema core line like Lawson's Ironwire I get about 3% stretch instead of 10% under a moderate load (e. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a conservative rule of thumb is about 50%. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). Here’s how to choose the right one. I'd say that if you use thin dyneema slings the chance of cross loading is very slim. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on which material would be better? My main concerns are waterproofing and longevity. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. qasgwq usgknbr bcast zdncw ueud amgvkj jzgqo focnk krjzriq djg